Chill with a Glass of Rías Baixas Albariño

If the summer heat has yet to arrive where you live in the Northern Hemisphere, it will likely make an appearance soon. Our local forecast is predicting triple-digit temperatures by the end of the week. I’m not looking forward to it, but I do know how to keep my cool in the heat — with a glass of Rías Baixas Albariño. Conveniently, we received three as tasting samples recently.

Rías Baixas is located in Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain along the Atlantic coast. Unlike most of Spain, it is cool and rainy in Galicia. White wines predominate here and, as you might expect, the wines are fresh and crisp with notable acidity. Sounds like the perfect sip for a hot day.

The Rías Baixas DO (Denominación de Origen) is made up of five non-contiguous sub-zones located between Santiago de Compostela and the Portuguese border. Topography, proximity to the sea or rivers creates a variety of microclimates. Temperatures are moderate with constant ocean breezes and rain in some areas that is nearly three times the national average. There is enough sunshine, however, to fully ripen grapes.

The five sub-zones share similar soils with granite and some schist, along with deposits of clay, silt, sand and gravel left by large rivers and tributaries. Organic material is limited, but high levels of minerality and acidity are present. All of these conditions are perfect for Albariño, the star variety of Rías Baixas.

Albariño makes up 95% of the plantings, but 12 varieties are allowed in wine production including Treixadura, Loureiro, Caiño Blanco, Torrontes and Godello. Not all Rías Baixas wines are the same, though 99% are white. A small amount of sparkling wine, rosé and red wine is also made. Eight wines styles are permitted in the region.

More than 10,000 acres are tended by just over 5000 growers. There are 180 producers, primarily small, family wineries, and more than 50% of winemakers are women. With men historically away fishing, women took charge of the vineyards and winemaking out of necessity.  This, and women’s skill at winemaking, may be responsible for the large number of women winemakers in the region today.

Let’s Taste

2024 Pazo de Lusco Albariño, Rías Baixas DO — light golden with generous aromas of ripe pears and melons. Flavors include citrus and ripe melons with juicy acidity and a bit of roundness. 13% ABV. Average price online $24

100% Albariño grown close to the Miño River in Condado do Tea sub-zone, where Pazo de Lusco is located, was fermented with native yeasts and aged on the lees for body and texture while maintaining freshness. Pazo de Lusco is part of the large Gonzalez Byass family of wineries. Sip this Albariño with seafood or shellfish.

2024 Altos de Torona Rosal, Rías Baixas DO — medium yellow with tropical, floral and light herbal aromas. Flavors include melon, pineapple and citrus with stony minerality in a lighter body. Notable, juicy acidity gives a long juicy finish. 12.5% ABV. Average price online $13. Can this be right?

This blend of Albariño, Caíño Blanco and Loureira was aged for six months on the fine lees in stainless steel. The vineyard is located in the O Rosal sub-zone on slopes between the Miño River and the Atlantic. Altos de Torona specializes in Albariño and other indigenous Galician varieties. Enjoy this delightful blend with prawns, fish, sushi or chicken.

2024 Pazo das Bruxas Albariño, Rías Baixas DO — light yellow with generous aromas of ripe melons and bruised apples. Flavors are mostly citrusy with notes of melon and stony minerality with plenty of acidity. The body is a bit round and the finish a bit tart. 12.5% ABV. Average price online $21

100% Albarino grown primarily in the sub-zone of Valle de Salnés, where Torre Penelas is located; wines are crafted from the 6-hectare walled vineyard. Short skin contact was followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel. Sip this wine with goat cheese, grilled seafood or sushi. 

Torre Penelas, a historic property dating to the 14th or 15th century, is owned by Familia Torres, the large winery with properties throughout Spain, in Chile and California. Familia Torres is a large company, but it is committed to mitigating climate change. Familia Torres is a member of the Primum Familiae Vini and co-founder of International Wineries for Climate Action, and of the Association of Regenerative Viticulture. The company is also B-Corp certified. 

The Fiesta de Albariño takes place the first week of August every year in Cambados, located in the heart of Rías Baixas. The rest of us can celebrate Albariño on August 1, which is officially World Albariño Day. You should have no problem finding a Rías Baixas Albariño (or two) to celebrate; the US is the region’s #1 export market. 

Thanks to GREGORY + VINE for organizing our tasting.

Cheers!