We’ve spent quite a lot of time in Italy recently — at least in terms of the wines we’re tasting. We’ve mostly been sipping northern Italy — a couple of versions of Schiavo (aka Vernatsch) from Alto Adige, and then a delightfully aromatic Turbiana from Lugana. All were perfect for warmer weather and lighter meals. With the change of seasons, it feel like the right time to head for southern Italy and a glass of bold red wine; Puglia is the perfect place to find one. We received this wine as a tasting sample.
Puglia occupies the heel of Italy’s boot along the Adriatic Sea south from the spur and also fronts the Ionian Sea. This region is hot, dry and windy. Red wine production predominates using varieties including Negroamaro, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Barbera, Aleatico and Primitivo according to the Society of Wine Educators (1).
For much of its history, Puglia (Apulia) has been known primarily for its bulk wine production. The region is large with 232,800 acres planted to vines. According to Italian Wine Central it is just within the last 10 years that the region has begun to earn recognition for its 4 DOCGs, 28 DOCs and 6 IGPs.
Primitivo di Manduria DOC sits along the Ionian Sea and as the name indicates, the region’s focus is Primitivo. The wines must be a minimum of 85% Primitivo along with other allowed red varieties. Minimum alcohol levels, maximum sugar levels and minimum aging requirements are established for Rosso and Riserva wines.
We know Primitivo as Zinfandel in California, and both are genetically similar to the Croatian variety Crljenak Kaštelanski aka Tribidrag. The origin of Zinfandel was established by Carole Meredith, a UC Davis grapevine geneticist, working with two Croatian scientists, Ivan Pejic and Edi Maletic at the University of Zagreb, using DNA-profiling techniques in December 2001. I remember how exciting the discovery was at the time, and still is.
2022 Varvaglione Papale Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOC —deep ruby with generous aromas of ripe boysenberries, ripe plums and red cherries. Flavors are complex with concentrated ripe berry, plum and cherry flavors with earthy notes. Tannins are fine and grippy and the wine is supported by good acidity in a medium body. 14.5% ABV. About $30.
After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, 100% Primitivo was aged briefly in barrique, tonneau and oak barrel followed by further aging in the bottle.
This wine tastes familiar, but has a flavor all its own. And while it is ripe, complex and concentrated, it doesn’t taste overripe or jammy. I’ve tasted plenty of overripe, high-alcohol Zins over the years and they are not my jam (haha!). This Primitivo is a hearty, delicious red wine that should pair beautifully with roasted meat, meat pasta or even pizza. Bring on the cool weather!
Varvaglione 1921 was founded in 1921 by Cosimo Varvaglione in Pulsano and the second generation built the first cellar in Leporano. The family’s first focus was the bulk wine market. Today the family makes 5,000,000 bottles of wine and exports to more than 70 countries.
The family makes Varvaglione 1921 wines from 370 acres of estate vineyards and sources additional grapes from a long-established network of grower partners tending nearly 1000 acres of vines. There are two Primitivo wines in the Papale line, which celebrates the region’s signature grape and was introduced to celebrate the winery’s 90th anniversary. The Primitivo grapes come from the Papale district, once owned by a pope from Puglia.
Thanks to Colangelo & Partners for organizing our tasting.
Cheers!
(1) Nickles, J. (2025). 2026 Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide. Society of Wine Educators.
Follow PullThatCork on Bluesky