There’s no more denying the change of seasons. Our birch tree is nearly bare and mornings are damp and chilly. Gone are morning walks in shorts and a T-shirt; long pants and a light vest are a better choice. In the evening, slippers are more comfortable than sandals. It’s just the time of year we might also reach for a little sip of something rich and warming after dinner. Tawny Port fits the description perfectly, and we are tasting two that we received as tasting samples. As a bonus, both are wrapped in newly-designed labels.
According to the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (the IVDP), the Portuguese governing body that regulates Douro and Porto wines, there are two broad categories of Port wine: Ruby and Tawny. And while all Port wines are fortified, Ruby Port is aged in the bottle and Tawny Ports are aged in barrels. This difference in aging makes the flavor profiles very different. There are several different kinds of Port in both broad categories and there are White Ports that are aged similarly to Tawny Ports.
Tawny Ports with an age indication, 10, 20, 30, 40, are blends of Tawny Ports of various ages that reflect the standardized characteristics of each age as established by the IVDP. Flavors change and become more concentrated with extended time in the barrel resulting in more complex wines.

Cockburn’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port — translucent dark amber with generous aromas of light caramel, nuts and dried figs. Flavors include caramel, hints of dried figs and walnuts with a slightly viscous mouthfeel and good acidity. The long finish is sweet, but not cloying, and warming. 20% ABV. SRP $43

Cockburn’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port — translucent lighter amber with generous aromas of dark caramel and toasted walnuts. Flavors follow with dark caramel and roasted hazelnuts, dried figs with a viscous mouthfeel with notable acidity. The finish is long and sweet, but not cloying, and warming. 20% ABV. SRP $75
I usually enjoy a glass of Tawny Port on its own, sipped from a Port glass or white wine glass. But in case you’re considering a pairing, Cockburn’s suggests pairing the 10 Year Old Tawny with sweet pastries and the 20 Year Old Tawny with walnuts, dried fruits and traditional Portuguese desserts, vanilla ice cream or crème brûlée.
While these Ports are not inexpensive, a little goes a long way. Only a small glass is very satisfying; at 20% ABV you probably wouldn’t want to consume a large glass anyway. And once the bottle is open the Tawny Port should remain good for 6 to 8 weeks according to the winery.
Cockburn’s is one of the many wineries that are part of Symington Family Estates. Other Ports that are part of the family include: W & J Graham’s, Dow’s, and Warre’s. Quinta do Vesúvio makes both Vintage Ports and Douro DOC wines. Other Symington wineries include: Quinta do Ataíde, Altano, Prats & Symington, Quinta da Fonte Souto, Mendes & Symington, Pequeno Dilema, Bom Malandro and Ilustres Desconhecidos.
The Symington family is British and Portuguese in origin and have been involved in the wine business in Portugal since the 19th century. Symington Family Estates is dedicated to the Douro through social programs there and the winery is a member at the Gold level of the International Wineries for Climate Action in addition to being a Certified B Corp.
Thanks to Calhoun & Company Communications for organizing our tasting.
Cheers!