On May 15, Stu and Charlie Smith, along with François Bugué, the Smiths’ associate winemaker, celebrated Smith-Madrone Vineyard & Winery’s 55th birthday. The celebration marked Stu’s signing of the paperwork in 1971 to acquire the Spring Mountain property that is home to Smith-Madrone’s vineyards and winery. Stu and Charlie started planting the vineyard the next year and their first vintage was 1977.
The picturesque vineyard and winery occupy but a fraction of the forested 200-acre property near the top of Spring Mountain District AVA. About 34 acres are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with some plantings dating back to 1972. The vines are largely dry-farmed and planted over steep hillsides at elevations between 1300 and 2000 feet above sea level. Specific grape varieties are planted at particular slopes, elevations and exposures to best suit each variety. Annual production is between 3000 and 4000 cases, sourced entirely from estate vineyards, made, aged and bottled in the estate winery.
Would it surprise you to learn that the Smith brothers built the winery themselves using wood and rock harvested from the property? That hands-on approach is reflected in the team’s winemaking choices as well. They know every block of grapes front-to-back. Their winemaking blends traditional methods from France and Germany with the newest winemaking advances in California. And they make the style of wine they enjoy drinking: elegant, refined wines that reflect their origin. And it’s a style many of us enjoy as well. Let’s taste the current release Cabernet Sauvignon, sent to us as a tasting sample.
2022 Smith-Madrone Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley — dark ruby with generous aromas of ripe blackberries, cedar and baking spices. Flavors include blackberries, boysenberries, black raspberries, cedar, alfalfa hay and dried tobacco, all supported by fresh acidity and well-integrated, fine tannins in a medium body. 14.2% ABV. 1518 cases made. SRP $70
What a lovely Cab — especially lovely, I’d say. As I poured a glass of wine and photographed it for this post, the complexity of the aromas was notable. The flavors that followed were equally complex and fresh. This is a Cabernet I could, and did, enjoy even in summer. The blend, which varies a bit every vintage, is 81.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18.5% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged in 50% new French oak for 18 months.
Of course, being located above Napa Valley, Smith-Madrone makes a stellar Cabernet Sauvignon (well, actually two stellar Cabs), but don’t overlook the Chardonnay, Riesling and the newest additions, Cabernet Franc and rosé. In addition to current release Riesling, look for library Riesling vertical offerings on the winery website. Smith-Madrone Riesling ages beautifully and that rosé is a real charmer — I love it for a summer lunch.
Cheers!
