This is a variety we were introduced to by our good friend Dave. One Monday night, a couple of years ago, he brought a bottle of 2008 Pasos Vineyards Tannat. It was inky dark, had complex dark fruit flavors with eucalyptus and perfumed scents. The tannins were substantial, but well integrated. We loved the combination of fruit flavors and big tannins. This experience with Tannat was enough to prompt us to look for it on wine lists and in wine stores.
Our next experience with Tannat was in Scottsdale last summer. Yes, I know, drinking a big, red wine in near 100 degree weather seems counterintuitive, but we did it. Sacrifices must be made.
We had dinner one evening at Cowboy Ciao, located in downtown Scottsdale. It is a restaurant we go to almost every time we are in Scottsdale. The food is generally excellent. The wine list is off the charts. It is the wine list that first brought us to the restaurant. You can take a look at it here. It is written with a sense of humor, but they are serious about wine. The wine list includes nearly 1800 wines from dozens of US states and 45 countries. The choices are confounding.
We managed to find the 2009 Domaine Monte de Luz Tannat. This wine from Uruguay was very dark ruby in the glass and the nose was obviously dark fruit. Flavors followed with complex dark fruit flavors and big, grippy tannins. Once again a big, muscular wine. We liked it very much.
Recently we found another Tannat from Uruguay, 2009 Pisano Reserve Tannat, and it did not disappoint us. Dark fruit scents of plum and blackberry rushed from the glass. Flavors were complex with dark fruit and tobacco, without being over-ripe. Once again, the tannins were significant and grippy, but well-integrated into the wine. And the weight in the mouth was so light. This wine was a wonderful food wine, ABV is only 13.5%. We drank it with a pork tenderloin served with mushroom sauce, roasted asparagus and smashed yams on a recent Monday evening. The longer this wine remained in the glass, the more flavors and scents continued to evolve. It was excellent to the last drop.
Tannat most likely originated in the area of Madiran, a village in southwest France near the Pyrenees. In Wine Grapes, Robinson, et al. describe it as a “vigorous” grower that produces “big bunches of grapes but small to medium-sized berries”. Clay soils in the Madrian region produce hugely tannic wines that do well with some aging.
Tannat was introduced into Uruguay by Basque settlers in the 1870s and thrived in the temperate climate and lighter soils. It has become the most extensively planted variety. In Uruguay, tannat produces a full-flavored slightly less tannic wine that does not require long aging.
If it is a varietal you have not sipped, keep and eye out for one. I do not think you will be disappointed. We will continue to look for them. Tannat is quickly becoming one of our favorite wines!
Cheers!
Reference: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz
