Barbera — Italy vs California

The focus of the tasting Thursday night at Fine Wines of Stockton was Barbera. We tasted four Italian and two California offerings. Will the California wines have a style of their own, or will they taste similar to the Italian wines? We shall see. Our task for the evening was to choose our two favorite wines. That shouldn’t be too tough.

Barbera may have originated in Piedmont, Monferrato or elsewhere and been brought to these areas. I have read conflicting opinions on its origins. Be that as it may, it is the the most widely planted variety in Piedmont in northwest Italy. Spelled Piemonte in Italian, Piedmont translates to “at the foot of the mountains”. Terrain is mountainous, hilly and flat with the Alps close by. Soil types are quite varied. Weather, thanks to the Mediterranean influence, is warm during the summer, but spring and fall are cool. Winters can be very cold.

Barbera vines are vigorous growers and it is a good producer of fruit. It is know for its high acidity, even from very ripe fruit. It is a late ripener, but that is convenient in Piedmont, as it ripens after Dolcetto and before Nebbiolo. The three varieties are planted extensively in the area.

Barbera was brought to California by Italian immigrants and is now widely planted in the state. Its high productivity and good acidity have made it a popular blending variety. Plantings in the Central Valley of California are used mainly for blending. In the Sierra Foothills, where it has thrived in the various soil types and warm temperatures, Barbera is a star in its own right.

Lets see what these wines have to offer.

2007 Monte delle Vigne Colli di Parma – berry scents are followed by cranberry and blackberry flavors with a very light mouthfeel and great acidity. Tannins are smooth and the finish is long with both flavor and tannins. This delicious wine would pair nicely with anything rich and fatty. Pasta Carbonara anyone? The acidity in this wine would be a great balance for that richness. ABV 13.5%. This was my favorite and Pete’s favorite wine of the evening. It was the second favorite of the group.

2009 Shenandoah Vineyards Rezerve Amador County Barbera – the nose can only be described as intoxicating. Scents of cedar, redwood and dark fruit were amazingly complex. Concentrated, dark-fruit and cedar flavors combined with smooth tannins for a long finish. Some tasters perceived significant sweetness in this wine, while others did not. Overall, this tasted much riper than the prior wine. It provoked much discussion. ABV 14.3%. This was the group’s favorite wine.

2011 Prunotto Barbera d’Asti Fiulot – scents of violets and a bit of caramel float out of the glass and follow with toasty, woodsy flavors and cranberries. Tart acidity and smooth tannins combine with fruit flavors for a long finish. This wine had lots of flavor and a very light weight in the mouth. ABV 13.5%. This was my second favorite wine. It would taste good with so many things…pasta, pizza, cheeses or just by itself.

2007 Easton Shenandoah Valley Cooper Ranch Barbera – sweet, ripe fruit on the nose is followed concentrated dried fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a long finish. Most perceived a sweetness in this wine and the finish was a bit hot. This was a weightier wine in the mouth and could stand up to roasted meats and pasta with spicy red sauce. This was a riper style of wine with ABV 14.5%.

2009 Borgogno Barbera d’Alba – fruit was not immediately evident with flinty, mineral scents dominating the nose. Cranberries and tart berry flavors combine with significant tannins and good acidity for a moderately long finish. Overall, the fruit flavors in this wine were restrained. ABV 13%.

2011 Marchesi de Barolo Maràia Barbera del Monferrato – scents of violets and grapes dominate the nose. Flavors of vanilla, raspberries and cranberries combine with smooth tannins and a very light weight in the mouth to produce a very interesting combination. This wine tastes very young to me, but I think it could become something very interesting over time. The ABV is 13%.

The wines we tasted exhibited two distinct styles of winemaking. One more ripe than the other. Both styles have an appeal. My preference is the less ripe, lighter style. Both styles are well made and pair well with food. Isn’t is great to have a choice? And the price of these wines is in the $15 to $25 range, with the California wines at $25. These are tasty and affordable everyday-drinking wines.

Cheers!

Reference: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Jose Vouillamoz