There is no denying a change of seasons is underway. Leaves are changing color and beginning to fall from the trees in earnest. Mornings are cool and damp, and although afternoons are still relatively warm, evenings are downright chilly. This is just the time of year when I begin to think about reaching for a little glass of something sweet and warming after dinner. Tawny Port is the perfect choice. Today we’re tasting two tawny Ports that we received as tasting samples.
Tawny Ports are a labor of love requiring a variety of skills and artistry including blending, cooperage selection and aging. Graham’s tawny Ports are made from grapes harvested from five quintas (estates) in the Douro Valley: Quinta dos Malvedos, Quinta do Tua, Quinta das Lages and two others, Quinta da Vila Velha and Quinta do Vale de Malhadas, which are owned by members of the Symington family.
Port wine production begins as do most red wines made in Portugal, using a blend of grape varieties. But, before fermentation is complete, it is stopped by the addition a neutral spirit, which kills the yeast leaving some the grapes’ natural sugars unfermented. The result is a sweet wine with a high alcohol content.
In the case of tawny Port, that fortified red wine goes on to age for many years in wooden barrels where it develops secondary flavors, gains complexity and becomes a beautiful amber color.
Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port — rusty garnet with generous aromas of caramel, dried figs and candied walnuts. Flavors are sweet with dried figs, dried plums and toasted walnuts with a plush roundness in the mouth. The finish is long and warming. 20% abv. SRP $46
Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port — coppery amber brown with generous aromas of dried figs, dates, toffee and cedar. Flavors are layered and rich with dried figs, brown sugar, earth, dates and hazel nuts. The body is rich with smooth tannins. The finish is long and warming. 20% abv. SRP $80
W & J Graham’s was established 1820 by brothers William and John after the brothers accepted port wine in payment of a debt. From the Graham’s website:
Originally trading in textiles, William and John Graham accepted 27 barrels of port in payment of an outstanding debt in 1820. Inspired by this wine, they decided to devote their energy to producing the best port wines from the Douro Valley, and this was how Graham’s Port was born.
In 1890 Graham’s purchased Quinta dos Malvedos in the Upper Douro Valley. That same year they built Graham’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto. The climate is cooler in Vila Nova de Gaia and makes the ideal location to age, store and blend port wines.
In 1882 Andrew James Symington came from Scotland to Porto to work for the Graham family. In 1970 Andrew’s grandsons purchased the company from the Graham family. The Symington family have grown their Port holdings to include Cockburn’s, Dow’s and Warre’s.
Tawny Port isn’t inexpensive, but it takes years to craft. It’s rich in flavor, and high in alcohol, so a little bit goes a long way. A small glass really is quite a treat and quite enough. And, once open a bottle will remain good for weeks. The holidays aren’t far off, so maybe consider treating yourself and your friends.
Thanks to Calhoun & Company Communications for organizing our tasting.
Cheers!
