Three wine estates sit under the umbrella of San Felice in Tuscany representing three different regions. San Felice is comprised of 370 acres of vines (and 15,000 olive trees) in Chianti Classico. Campogiovanni sits in Montalcino with approximately 57 acres of vineyards, 34 of which are dedicated to making Brunello. Bell’Aja is located close to the ocean in Bolgheri where 5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 acres Merlot are cooled by sea breezes. The vineyards here are surrounded by forest and the estate is also home to 2540 Cypress trees.
With nearly 450 acres of vines to farm, not to mention all those olive trees, the San Felice team can’t help but be aware of the changing climate. With that in mind and with concern for soil quality, water conservation, biodiversity and carbon sequestration, San Felice was the first Italian winery to join the Regenerative Viticulture Association and begin working toward certification. The steps toward certification begin with an application and establishment of a plan to certify, then an external audit, followed by a self-assessment and periodic external assessments. There are two levels of certification: RVA Transition and RVA Certified.
According to the Regenerative Viticulture Association:
The philosophy of San Felice is excellently represented by the creation of the Vitiarium, a collection of ancient native vines created to curb the genetic erosion which we witnessed in past years. San Felice is also an Equalitas certified company for sustainability. It is energy self-sufficient and adopts principles of organic viticulture, facing the challenges of climate change by adopting the principles of regenerative agriculture.
We received three sample wines made by San Felice – one from each of the regions they represent.
2019 San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG — translucent garnet with generous aromas of blackberries, cherries and leather. Flavors include blackberries, blueberries and cherries with notes of tobacco leaf and pencil lead all supported by fresh acidity. The body is medium with integrated grippy and drying tannins. 14.5% ABV. 78,000 bottles made. Average price: $60 per Wine-Searcher.
This Brunello is a lovely representation of Sangiovese. It was vinified in stainless steel and aged an average of three years in Slavonian oak casks and 500-liter tonneaux followed by 12 months in the bottle.
2019 San Felice Vigorello, Toscana IGT — dense ruby with generous aromas of dark plums, blackberries and celery leaf. Flavors include red plums, tart raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and tobacco leaf. Tannins are grippy, but integrated with the complex flavor profile in a medium body with fresh acidity. 13.5% ABV. 40,000 bottles made. Average price: $58 per Wine-Searcher.
What an appealing wine! Lovely complexity, plenty of structure and modest alcohol. Vigorello was first made in 1968 and was the first of what came to be called Super Tuscans. The blend includes Pugnitello 35%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30% and Petit Verdot 5%. Pugnitello is an ancient indigenous grape revived by San Felice. Vinification and 24 months’ maturation took place in 225-liter French oak barriques, followed by 8 months in the bottle.
2021 Bell’Aja Bolgheri Superiore DOC — dense ruby with aromas of raspberries, plums and blackberries. Flavors include ripe boysenberries, blackberries, raspberries and earth. Tannins are grippy and gauzy, but integrated with the flavors in a medium body with fresh acidity. 14.5% ABV. 16,000 bottles made. Average price: $51 per Wine-Searcher.
Merlot mostly stands on its own in this wine with just a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. San Felice describes this wine as a faithful representation of a unique terroir. It is certainly delicious. After fermentation and maceration for 25 days, it was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.
All three of these wines are delicious, so whether you are craving Sangiovese, a blend of indigenous Tuscan varieties with Bordeaux varieties or a charming Merlot, San Felice has a wine that will be perfect with a meal. The price may be a bit high for everyday enjoyment, but certainly for a special occasion these wines are well worth a splurge.
We reviewed two of these wines in 2023 and included a bit of background on Brunello di Montalcino and Bolgheri in that post.
Thanks to Platinum Media for organizing our tasting.
Cheers!
