During the crush of holidays that begin at Halloween and rush toward a celebration of the New Year, it can be a challenge to find time slow down and enjoy the season. A simple meal with a refreshing glass of wine on a quiet evening at home can be the perfect antidote to all that rushing around. Not that we do much rushing around, but I can confirm Dungeness crab paired with a glass of 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling is the perfect refresh for the season. We received this wine as a tasting sample.
There are quite a few things that make a bottle of Smith-Madrone wine special.
Location
Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery was established more than 50 years ago on the steep slopes in Spring Mountain District above Napa Valley. When Stuart Smith discovered the property the previous owner’s viticultural efforts had mostly been reclaimed by native mountain vegetation, though a few very tall Picholine olive trees from the era, more than 120 years ago, remain.
Not Just Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa
Stuart’s brother, Charles, soon joined him on Spring Mountain as winemaker and they set about planting the vineyard. Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon were the first varieties planted in 1972, although the Pinot Noir was grafted over to Chardonnay in 1986. The original vineyard plantings were made on their own roots. Cabernet Franc and Merlot were planted in 1998 and Petite Verdot was added in 2007. The vineyard has been dry-farmed since 2017 and only irrigated when absolutely necessary. Their plantings have always been guided more by what they enjoy drinking than market whims.
Interesting Dirt
The soils are rocky and mostly deep-red Aiken Stoney Clay loam that are volcanic, deep for mountain soils and well-draining. The underlying geology is a jumble of complex soils belonging to the Franciscan Assemblage, unique to the California Coast Range.
Small Production
All Smith-Madrone wines are estate grown and annual production is only 3000 to 4000 cases. Stuart and Charles were joined by François Bugué as associate winemaker in 2021. It’s a small but experienced crew who know how to craft wines in a classic style that reflect the magnificent mountain location. The people, the vineyard practices and the winemaking remain constant from vintage to vintage, but there is a fourth influence that is not so constant: Mother Nature — you will taste her influence in Smith-Madrone wines every vintage too.
2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley — pale yellow with generous aromas of petrol, barely ripe pineapple and stone fruit. Flavors follow with barely ripe pineapple and pears with underlying dusty gravel and mouthwatering acidity. The flavors are very long and dry in a light body. 13.2% ABV. 1258 cases made. SRP $40
Riesling is planted on the steepest hillsides on the Spring Mountain estate with an eastern exposure.
Mmm, so sippable, fresh and bright. Over the years we have paired the Smith-Madrone Riesling with everything from pasta to Thai peanut chicken wraps; it is incredibly versatile. This year it was Dungeness crab. We kept it simple with just a dollop of mayo and diced Calabrian chili added to the crab on a bed of butter lettuce and avocado with a light drizzle of lemon and avocado oil dressing. So fresh. So bright. Just like the wine.
Smith-Madrone Riesling shares the spotlight with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and most recently, Cabernet Franc. We’ve tasted them all and a thread of elegance runs through them. The Cabernet Franc is a real charmer and the rosé, not made every vintage, is brilliant. Wines are available for purchase on the winery website, or you can plan a visit to the mountainside vineyard and winery. The Smith brothers built the winery themselves using wood and stones from the property. It’s a piece of Napa history.
Cheers!
