Shelter Spätburgunder is the middle-tier Pinot Noir made by Hans-Bert Espy and Silke Wolf at their small winery in Kenzingen, Baden. The couple farm just a few hectares of vines north of the Kaiserstuhl where the soils have transitioned from volcanic to limestone and loess. Growing conditions are a bit cooler here too, thanks to the influence of the Black Forest. We received this wine as a tasting sample.
According to Importer, vom Boden, Hans-Bert and Silke don’t use herbicides or pesticides in the vineyard, picking is done by hand and winemaking is hands off. Work in the cellar begins with a cold soak, then gentle pressing. The grapes may be de-stemmed depending on the vintage. Fermentation takes place in open-top wooden vessels and aging takes place in mostly used oak.
The not-so-German-sounding name of the winery calls back to the winery’s first location in a rented Canadian hangar. The couple have since built a new winery, but the name remains as a reminder of their humble beginning.
2016 Shelter Winery Spätburgunder, Baden — translucent ruby in the glass with flinty aromas that give way to berry bramble and blackberry aromas. Flavors include ripe raspberries and blackberries, dried herbs, dusty earth and berry bramble. Tannins are fine and smooth in a barely medium body. 13% abv. $28
The combination of berry fruit flavors and earthy bramble flavors is very appealing in this easy-sipping Pinot Noir with nice structure. It is absolutely delightful slightly chilled.
Thanks to Wines of Germany USA for this introduction to Baden Pinot Noir.