While it is true that Shiraz steals most of the headlines in the Australian wine world, other red varieties play an important role in their own right as both varietal wines and blenders. A recent tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton set out to remind us just how delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia can be.
Most of Australia is much too hot and dry to sustain vineyards. The southern portion of the country near Perth in Western Australia, Adelaide in South Australia and near Melbourne in Victoria are all coastal areas cooled by ocean breezes and therefore suitable for vineyards.
The Great Dividing Range which runs along the southeastern coast of Australia from Melbourne to Brisbane provides higher elevations and thus a cooler climate suitable for vineyards. The most northern Australian vineyards are located a bit north of Sydney in the Hunter Valley.
A few inland grape growing areas in New South Wales are made possible by large rivers that provide ample irrigation for vineyards.
Tasmania represents the most southern reach of viticulture in Australia. This island has a very cool and short growing season.
Shiraz is the variety most often associated with Australian winemaking, at least in part because so much of it is produced. In 2013 it was the number one red variety crushed, nearly double that of Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot coming in a distant number three.
This group of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon blends are all from the southeast corner of South Australia around Adelaide and to the southeast.
The climate in this region is generally described as Mediterranean, that means warm summer days moderated by cool ocean breezes and cool nights. This combination of warm days allows for adequate ripening of fruit and preservation of acidity thanks to the cool nights. Here is what we tasted.
2010 Greg Norman Limestone Coast Cabernet Merlot — subtle vegetal, minty aromas are followed by tart fruit flavors of blackberries and plums with a bit of mint. Juicy acidity and moderate, well integrated tannins combine with the bright fruit flavors to create a flavorful wine in a less-ripe style. Tasty on its own, and a good partner with food. ABV 14.5%.
This delicious blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Merlot is made from fruit sourced along the Limestone Coast in South Australia; specifically from Coonawarra, Padthaway and Robe.
Coonawarra is famous for its terra rossa soil, red soil that is rich in iron which overlies limestone. Coonawarra, Padthaway and Robe share a Mediterranean climate with warm days and cool nights. Cabernet Sauvignon is very happy growing in the Limestone Coast area of South Australia.
2007 Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon — aromas of dark ripe fruit and figs are followed with flavors of ripe plums, spice and leather. Significant tannins and good acidity combine with mature flavors to produce a wine with a heavier body and a very long finish. ABV 14.5%
Fruit is harvested from a collection of South Australia vineyards selected for their low yield. Traditional winemaking methods are used along with aging in American and French oak before blending and bottling without filtering.
Kilikanoon was only established in 1997, but has quickly been recognized for producing quality Shiraz and Riesling. It farms a number of vineyards within the Clare Valley, the oldest of which was planted in 1865.
2012 Mollydooker Maitre’d Cabernet Sauvignon — vanilla, caramel and cherry fruit aromas are followed by sweet cherry flavors, moderate tannins and good acidity. The body is surprisingly light. The fruit flavors peak quickly and do not last a terribly long time. Surprising flavors for a Cabernet Sauvignon. ABV is 15.5%
Fruit is sourced from the McLaren Vale area, including Langhorne Creek. Once again, the climate in this area is cool thanks to ocean breezes. Soil is variable, running between thin topsoil and deep alluvial soils. Aging takes place in a combination of new and one year old American and French oak.
In case you don’t already know, mollydooker is Australian for left-handed. Owners Sparky and Sarah Marquis are both left-handers, hence the name. As you might guess, the pair bring a sense of fun to their winemaking.
2011 Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah — dark fruit, earth and mint combine to produce an intoxicating aroma. Flavors of dark plum, blackberry and a bit of mint along with moderate, smooth tannins and clean acidity produce flavors that are fairly long. Plenty of flavor, not too ripe, interesting integration of mint and fruit flavors. ABV 14%.
The Cabernet and Syrah are sourced from the St Kitts and Kabininge vineyards located in the Barossa Valley and the blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon 24% Shiraz.
Located near Adelaide, the Barossa valley is well known for Shiraz, but clearly produces very nice Cabernet as well. Blend the two together and voilà, you get some interesting flavors.
Vineyard plantings in the Barossa Valley date back to the 1840s. If you are at all curious about how the Barossa Valley got its name, read this brief account and follow the link to the original article. It’s an interesting story.
2010 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon — mint and eucalyptus aromas predominate along with ripe plums. Darker fruit flavors of blackberries and ripe plums, significant tannins and good acidity combine to produce a bit more weight in the mouth and a long finish. This tastes great now, and should be really interesting with more time in the bottle. ABV 14%.
Produced from Cabernet grown in vineyards throughout South Australia, this Cabernet Sauvignon is made for early drinking but has good depth of flavor and good structure which should allow flavors to continue to evolve in the bottle.
Penfolds’ winemaking history dates back to 1844. By their account, it was Mary Penfold, wife of Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold, who was responsible for their early winemaking efforts. Their early wines, made from Grenache, were prescribed “as tonic wines for anaemic patients.”
2010 Château Tanunda Grand Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon — complex aromas of black tea, dark fruit and mint are followed by flavors of plums, ripe blackberries and sweet tea. The body is light to moderate and the finish is moderately long. Lots of flavor, not too ripe, great complexity. ABV 13.5%.
Grapes were destemmed and fermented without crushing in open top stainless steel fermenters before pressing and maturation in new and older oak for 16 months.
A Château in South Australia? This impressive property dates back to the 1880s when the “Bavarian-style Château” was built. It produced wine from grapes grown by over 500 local farmers. The wine was then shipped to a European market thirsty for wine due to the phylloxera epidemic sweeping through their own vineyards.
The current owners purchased the property in 1998, by which time it had been abandoned and was in a state of total disrepair. It has since been restored beyond its original glory and includes gardens, a croquet lawn and cricket ground. The cellar door (tasting room) is located in the center of the wine cellar. Definitely a place to visit when in South Australia.
These six wines give us a partial view of what Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia can offer. If you like a riper, higher alcohol style, look for the Mollydooker Maitre’d Cabernet Sauvignon or the Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon. All others are a less ripe style with lower levels of alcohol. Prices range between $15 and $28 per bottle. They taste good and won’t break the bank.
If you’re looking to take a virtual tour of South Australia, have a look at this interesting travel guide.
Cheers!
