Located on the northern plateau of Spain, two hours north of Madrid, Ribera del Duero is a wine region dedicated largely to Tempranillo. It has come to prominence fairly recently, though winemaking dates back to Roman times. Monasteries in the area were sources of vines and winemaking during the 12th and 13th centuries. It was during this time that the area’s underground cellars were dug to store wine, protecting it from the extreme weather.
Ribera’s wines were highly valued as exports during the 17th and 18th Centuries when the Spanish Empire was at its height. Winemaking developed in the region without the intervention of outside influences, unlike in Rioja where French winemakers had a direct and significant influence.
But there was some influence from Bordeaux. Bodega Vega Sicilia was founded in 1864 and became the first modern-day winery known for exceptional quality. Its founder Don Eloy Lecanda Chavés studied winemaking in Bordeaux and brought Bordeaux grape varieties back to Ribera del Duero with him. When Ribera del Duero earned Denominación de Origen (DO) status in 1982 the French varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec were included along with indigenous varieties of Tempranillo and Garnacha Tinta for the production of red wine.
Ribera del Duero follows the Duero River through the provinces of Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid within the autonomous region of Castilla y León. The word Ribera translates to riverbank, so Ribera del Duero accurately describes the area as the river runs through the center of the roughly 22 mile wide and 71 mile long wine region.
This important “wine river”, which flows from east to west, goes on to flow through the other Spanish wine regions of Rueda, Toro, Tierra del Vino de Zamora and Arribes before entering Portugal where it becomes the Douro River lending its name to the Douro Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) famous for producing Port wine.
The northern plateau region of Spain is situated at more than 2500 feet above sea level. It is protected from the moisture of the Atlantic Ocean by mountains, and receives less than 18 inches of rain annually. The elevation and limited rainfall make the climate challenging for growing grapes.
Winters are very cold and snowy, spring frost is always a threat and the cool weather delays bud-break making for a short growing season. Storms can be unpredictable and severe. Summertime temperatures can reach 100º F but the high altitude means that temperatures cool significantly at night, producing a temperature swing of 40 – 50º on summer days. Very warm days allow the grapes to fully ripen and the cool nights preserve acidity within the grapes — which is exactly what winemakers want.
Vineyards are planted at between 2500 and 3100 feet above sea level. Soil types within Ribera del Duero are variable. Soil near the river is more alluvial and sandy. Chalky limestone and clay characterize soil types at higher elevations.
All aspects of viticulture, allowed varieties, winemaking, alcohol levels and labeling are regulated by the Consejo Regulador of the Ribera del Duero DO. Only red wine production, inlcuding rosada (rosé), may be classified. Tempranillo, also called Tinto Fino and Tinta del Pais locally) must be 75% of any blend. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec are used as blending varieties with Tempranillo, though you will find 100% Tempranillo as well. Garnacha Tinta is used to produce Rosado.
Maximum yield in the vineyard is regulated at of 3.1 tons per acre, though maximum yields are generally kept lower (averaging 1.6 tons per acre) in the interest of quality fruit production.
Ribera del Duero uses numbered back labels similar to those used in Rioja to certify origin, quality and aging. Aging requirements are similar with the addition of Rosado to the labeling. These are the aging categories from Ribera del Duero DO at drinkriberawine.com.
- Cosecha: Joven usually see no oak aging. Joven Roble or Joven Barrica aged three to six months in oak. These wines are released soon after harvest and are fruity wines intended to be consumed when young.
- Crianza: aged two years with a minimum of one year aging in oak. May be released after the first of October two years after harvest.
- Reserva: aged three years with a minimum of one year aging in oak. May be released after the first of October three years after. Aging is generally one year in oak, two years in bottle. Reserva wines are ready to be enjoyed upon release.
- Gran Reserva: aged a minimum of five years with a minimum of two years in oak followed by bottle aging. May be released after the first of October five years after harvest. Gran Reserva wines are made in only in select vintage years.
- Rosado: Rosé wines produced with minimal skin contact and released soon after harvest. These wines are intended to be enjoyed while young and fruity.
The use of oak barrels is closely regulated in terms of type, classification and length of use.
We recently tasted six wines from Ribera del Duero at a Thursday night tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton. The previous Thursday evening we tasted six wines from Rioja, another Spanish region known for producing wine from Tempranillo. It was a great opportunity to contrast the styles and learn a little about both regions. Here is what we tasted from Ribera del Duero.
2012 Bodegas Convento de Las Claras Tinto Fino— very dark ruby-violet in the glass with aromas of red and dark fruit. Obvious bright fruit flavors of ripe plums, raspberries and blackberries combine with a smokiness in the background. Tannins are significant and drying, in fact they dominate the finish which is moderately long. This is not a shy wine. It has lots of color, aroma, flavor and texture. ABV 14%.
The Tempranillo was harvested from a single vineyard named Pago el Carrascal planted in 1986 near Bocos on the north bank of the Duero River. Soils here are alluvial, and after harvest in October fermentation began in stainless steel with malolactic fermentation completed in new French oak. The wine was aged in new French oak for a further 8 months.
Before founding Bodegas Convento de Las Claras, José Carlos Alvarez worked as a researcher and then Consejo Regulador of Ribera del Duero DO as well as winemaker at several other wineries.
2007 Bodegas y Viñedos O. Fournier Spiga — dark ruby in the glass with aromas of dark, dried fruit and a hint of vanilla. Complex flavors of concentrated dried plums and earth combine with significant, grippy tannins. A bit of vanilla is hiding in the background and the flavors in this wine are very layered with the tannins well integrated into the flavors. The finish is very long with both fruit flavors and tannins. 14% ABV.
Also made from 100% Tempranillo, the grapes were hand harvested in October. Fermentation started in stainless steel and malolactic fermentation was completed in new and second-use barrels. Aging in new French oak for 13 months followed.
2008 Bodegas y Viñedos Montecastro — dark ruby in the glass with smoky red and dark fruit aromas. Ripe red and dark fruit flavors of berries and plums combine with significant, smooth tannins and juicy acidity to produce a very well-balanced wine. There is some vanilla in the background flavors of this wine, it is pulled together and delicious. 14% ABV.
Produced from Tempranillo that is both estate grown and purchased from growers. Due to the warming climate, vineyards at higher elevation and with a northern exposure are selected. Vineyards are located at between 2300 and 3300 feet above sea level. Wood aging takes place in a combination of French and American oak for 17 months.
2010 Condado de Haza — very dark ruby in the glass with earthy dark fruit aromas and flavors, lots of acid and significant drying tannins. The finish is very long with both ripe, dark fruit flavors and tannins. The body of this wine feels a bit lighter than the preceding wines. 14% ABV.
Condado de Haza is the second project of winemaker Alejandro Fernández. Tempranillo is grown in a 500 acre south-facing vineyard on a stretch of the Duero River below the hilltop village of Haza. Vineyards were planted beginning in 1989 and the first vintage produced was 1993. Aging for 15 months in American oak is the norm.
2010 Tinto Pesquera — very dark ruby in the glass with dark fruit and slightly vegetal aromas. Rich flavors of very ripe, sweet, dark fruit and spice combine with good acidity and smooth, well-integrated tannins. The finish is a bit hot, and the flavors are consistent with grapes grown in a very warm climate. 14% ABV.
Tempranillo clusters are destemmed and a temperature-controlled fermentation begins with only natural yeast. After pressing, aging in new American oak takes place for between 16 and 36 months.
Tinto Pesquera was established in 1972 by Alejandro Fernández, who for years made wine on a small scale and dreamed of having his own winery. He was the first to plant Tempranillo and trellis the vines on wires. Until then, Tempranillo was planted as individual goblet vines (head-trained vines to us). Tinta Pequera’s Tempranillo vineyards are planted on gravelly terraces and at an altitude of over 3000 feet above sea level.
The quality of Tinto Pesquera made Alejandro Fernández famous and raised the stature of Ribera del Duero as well. His success enabled him to establish Condado de Haza in the late 1980s.
2010 St. Amant Winery Tempranillo — dark garnet in the glass with obvious dark fruit aromas followed by sweet, dark fruit flavors with tobacco and black tea flavors in the background. Tannins are smoother in this wine, it’s not as muscular as those preceding it in this tasting. Some tasters noted significant wood influence in the flavors. 14.5% ABV
George often likes to include a “ringer” in a group of wines and this is it. Produced in Lodi from Tempranillo grown in the Sierra Foothills by the Spencer family whom George and Gail have known for years. It was interesting to taste this local interpretation of Tempranillo along with those from Ribera del Duero. Flavors were similar but different — of course.
An interesting and flavorful group of wines. Tempranillo shows it fruity quality in these wines with lots of dark and red fruit flavors. Flavors are bold and ripe, but not overly alcoholic. These wines as a group tasted more fruit-forward than the group of Tempranillo from Rioja, where flavors of tobacco, earth and tea combined with fruit.
The two tastings are admittedly small, but they were an interesting sampling and comparison. These two Spanish wine regions, though separated by only 60 or 70 miles, are very distinct in terms of weather especially, elevation and soil type, so it is no surprise the wines from each region are so distinctive.
Tempranillo is a wine made to pair with grilled meat. The smoky, juicy flavors of grilled steaks would be delicious with Tempranillo. Something to remember with grilling season fast approaching.
Cheers!
Reference:
Robinson, Jancis. (Editor), 3rd edition, The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford University Press. Retrieved via www.jancisrobinson.com
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