The Alsace region is tucked into the northeast corner of France right along the border with Germany. It is bound by the Vosges mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east, and runs in a roughly north-south direction. Control of the area has passed between Germany and France over the years, so you will notice many German-sounding names on the map of this region – the capital city of the region is Strasbourg. Alsatian food is a collision of the two countries, as is the regional dialect. These characteristics are not uncommon in border regions between countries and they are some of the things that make these regions so interesting.
We recently tasted a collection of six wines from Alsace at a Thursday night tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton. It gave us an opportunity to learn about this unique region and have an introduction to the wines.
Alsace is located very far north, at about the same latitude as the Champagne and Chablis wine regions. The climate is a bit warmer and much drier though, thanks to the shielding effect of the Vosges mountains. The mountains protect Alsace from the storms sweeping into France from the Atlantic and as a result summers are relatively warm and dry — actually it’s one of the driest wine regions in France.
Jancis Robinson notes in The Oxford Companion to Wine, that over 20 soil types are found in Alsace. In general, topsoil is thinner a bit higher up on the slopes of the Vosges with underlying schist, granite and volcanic sediment. Lower on the mountain side the top soil is deeper with limestone, clay and marl subsoils. Soil in the valley floor is alluvial and more fertile than optimal for vineyards. As with many northern wine regions, to maximize the sun’s ripening effect, the best vineyards claim southern facing slopes.
Wine production in Alsace is almost exclusively white, with only a small amount of Pinot Noir being made. White varieties include Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer (hold the umlaut in Alsace, please), Pinot Gris, Sylvaner, Muscat, Chasselas, Auxerrois and Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin Rose).
In addition, there are a couple of oddities unique to Alsace. Still wines from Alsace must be bottled in a tall ‘Wine of the Rhine’ shaped bottle, known as a ‘Flute’. It’s the bottle shape I associate with Rieslings from Germany. Secondly, varietal names may appear on the bottle if the wine is made from 100% of the variety. Neither of these is particularly French, but they are uniquely Alsatian. For blended wines you may see Edelzwicker (sounds German to me) or Gentil on the label.
There are three wine classifications used in Alsace. Alsace AOC classification was designated in 1962. In addition to strict quality control requirements, growing areas are strictly designated along historical lines and 11 communal names are allowed. A vineyard name, called a lieu-dit in Alsace (and in Burgundy too), may appear on the label. AOC production represents 74% of the region’s wine.
The Alsace Grand Cru AOC designation followed in 1975 and is recognition of the top vineyards, or lieux-dits, each named as an appellation of its own. Numbering 51 in all and defined according to geography and climate these vineyards represent the best terroir. The Grand Cru vineyards are mostly located in the southern portion of Alsace, called the Haut-Rhin. It is a bit higher in elevation than the northern portion of the valley which is referred to as Bas-Rhin.
Grand Cru designation requires more specific viticultural practices, a lower yield and a higher level of ripeness. Chaptalization (the addition of sugar during fermentation) is not allowed. In addition, Grand Cru vineyards may only grow the ‘noble varieties’ of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat…except…wait for it… where Sylvaner and blended wines are allowed. You knew there would be an exception, right? Grand Cru wines account for only 4% of total Alsace production.
Crémant d’Alsace AOC, declared in 1976, was designated for sparkling wines made in the traditional method (méthode traditionnelle) also used in Champagne. Usually produced from Pinot Blanc, but also from Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Chardonnay may only be used in Crémant d’Alsace). Crémant d’Alsace production accounts for 22% of regional production.
Finally, there are two late harvest indications you may see on the label of Alsace AOC or Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines. ‘Vendanges Tardives’ are late harvest wines produced from Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling or Muscat and exhibit the concentrated and unique flavors of the variety as well as the influence of Noble Rot (Botrytis cinerea). ‘Sélection de Grains Noble’ are harvested over many passes through the vineyard (as with Sauternes), selecting only those grapes affected by Noble Rot which results in wines showing less varietal character and more Botrytis flavors.
These are the six wines we tasted, all are Alsace AOC classified wines.
2009 Josmeyer Le Kottabe Riesling — light yellow in the glass with delicate floral and petrol aromas. A bit of citrus with lots of mineral and flinty flavors (like sucking on a pebble) combine in a light bodied wine with good acid and a clean finish. Light and refreshing. ABV 12.5%
2011 Rene Mure Signature Pinot Gris — light yellow in the glass with just subtle aromas of dry gravel. Lemony, citrusy flavors with minerals follow with significant acid creating what is best described as an austere wine. Some tasters in the group though it had too much acid, but not so to my taste. Pairing this wine with something fatty would produce a brilliant result. ABV 13%.
2011 Louis Sipp Ribeauville Pinot Blanc — pale yellow in the glass with sweet cherry and peach aromas. The flavors that followed were very different from the nose. It was briny like an ocean breeze – it made me think of the beach. There was plenty of acid but at the same time had some weight in the mouth. ABV 12.5%
A very interesting wine. It provoked the most lively debate of all the wines. Everyone seemed to taste something different in this wine. I love it when that happens.
This producer has adds a helpful scale indicating the relative dryness or sweetness of the wine on the back label. If the indicator is located to the left it is dry, to the right relatively sweet.
I have seen a similar scale on some German Rieslings and in the US on Finger Lakes Rieslings. It’s a nice guide to help consumers choose a wine that suits their tastes.
2011 Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Blanc — darker yellow in the glass with slight melon aromas. More stone, mineral and lemony flavors but with a bit more weight and good acidity. There is plenty of flavor in this wine to pair nicely with a variety of lighter fare. ABV 12.5%.
2011 Louis Sipp Ribauville Gewurztraminer — medium yellow in the glass with obvious floral aromas of honey suckle followed by similar floral flavors adding orange blossom and a bit of sweetness. This wine was rounder in the mouth with adequate acidity and a long finish. ABV 13%.
Once again, a scale on the back of the bottle is included to indicate the relative dryness or sweetness of the wine. This wine is a bit sweeter on the scale (and to the taste) than the Louis Sipp Pinot Blanc.
2010 Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Gewurztraminer — medium yellow in the glass with delicate floral aromas. Flavors are a combination of citrus and minerals with just a touch of sweetness. Lighter bodied and flavorful. ABV 13%.
An interesting and flavorful introduction to Alsace, this collection of white wines left me wanting to further explore Alsatian wines. I liked the flavors and mostly lighter bodied style of wine and I really appreciate the lower alcohol levels. I especially enjoy the flavors of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.
Any of these wines would be perfect for a warm afternoon spent sitting in the shade with a good book. Add lighter food, a salad or snacks, no problem. Perfect for this time of year.
Cheers!
References:
Robinson, Jancis. (Editor), 3rd edition, The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford University Press. Retrieved via http://www.jancisrobinson.com
Society of Wine Educators
Vins d’Alsace
