The Wines of Howell Mountain

Howell Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA), located within the Napa AVA, was the first sub-appellation to be designated in 1983. Howell Mountain is located on the northeast side of Napa Valley. The AVA ranges from 1400 to 2200 feet, putting it above the fog line.

When fog rolls into the Napa Valley, vineyards in the Howell Mountain AVA are in the sunshine. The elevation results in lower daytime temperatures and warmer nighttime temperatures. This moderation in temperatures results in later than average bud break and great acidity in the wines.

There are two main soil types within the Howell Mountain AVA. Tufa, which consists of decomposed volcanic ash and red clay which is high in iron. Both drain well and are poor in nutrients. This results in stressed vines which produces small clusters of small berries. This high ratio of skins to fruit produces wines with big tannins.

The most common varieties planted within the AVA are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Franc.

We recently tasted wines from the Howell Mountain AVA at the Spring Howell Mountain Wine Tasting. The tasting was hosted by the Howell Mountain Vintners & Growers Association at Bentley Reserve in San Francisco.

Over 30 Howell Mountain wineries poured their wines for the event. The star of the tasting was Cabernet Sauvignon, by itself and blended. These Cabernets are big, muscular, well-structured wines. Flavors of dark berries, currents, cigar and tobacco invariably pair with significant, grippy tannins and great acidity. These are not hot weather, jammy wines.

As a group, these wines are not overly influenced by wood aging. Wood flavors generally are well in the background with the flavor of the fruit free to come forward. ABV is in the 14 to 14.5% range for many of these wines.

As you sip these wines, you can only imagine the complexity that will develop with time in the bottle. I expect these flavorful, tannic wines to become interesting as they age, flavors evolve and tannins soften.

Production for many of these wineries is relatively small, putting the beginning price of a bottle of Howell Mountain Cabernet around $65. I view these wines as investment pieces. You might choose a winery, taste the wines, purchase several bottles and then wait. Begin tasting them five, seven, ten or more years from now. Make tasting notes now and then compare the flavors as these wines age. It could be a fun and educational experience.

There are currently about 45 members of the Howell Mountain Vintners and Growers Association. Wineries located within the appellation and wineries making wines from appellation vineyards are eligible for membership in the association. This map of Howell Mountain Wineries provides you with winery locations and a list of members. Not all wineries have tasting rooms, so contact wineries ahead of time if you are interested in visiting.

Some of our favorites in this group of excellent wines:

Arkenstone – 2009 Obsidian Howell Mountain Cabernet Blend $120
Bremer Family Winery – 2006 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $85
Cakebread Cellars – 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $110
Dunn Vineyards – 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $90
John Robert Eppler Wines – 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $65
La Jota – 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon; 2005 Howell Mountain Merlot
Notre Vin – 2008 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $150; 2007 Howell Mountain Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon $24
Red Cap Vineyards – 2008 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $65
Retro Cellars – 2009 Howell Mountain Old Vine Petite Sirah $42
Roberts + Rogers – 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $60
SPENCE – 2007 and 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $65/$72

Cheers!