The Rhone Rangers – Mourvèdre A Rising Star in the World of American Rhones

This is the second seminar we attended as part of the San Francisco Weekend Celebration of American Rhone Wines, which was sponsored by The Rhone Rangers. This seminar was intended to showcase Mourvèdre. Seven winemakers presented and talked about their wines. The seminar was moderated by Jon Bonné, Wine Editor, San Francisco Chronicle.

“Mourvèdre see Monastrell” is what you find when looking for Mourvèdre in Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson et al. Under the heading of Monastrell they continue, “High-quality, heat-loving dark-skinned variety most valued for its heady, structured contribution to blends”.

This variety originated around Valencia, Spain. It may have been brought there by the Phoenicians, though there is no scientific proof of this. It is a “challenging” variety to grow. It buds late and ripens late and requires a very warm climate to fully-ripen. It is sensitive to drought, low-yielding and susceptible to pests, but not botrytis. You have to wonder why winemakers even bother. Yet, they do.

Mourvèdre was the main variety planted around Valencia before phylloxera severely reduced plantings in 1868. Within France, Mourvèdre is planted along the Mediterranean in Provence, Languedoc and of course into the Rhone River Valley. Bandol, within Provence, has the sandy, limestone soils and warm climate favored by Mourvèdre and it therefore is widely-planted. The sandy soils of Bandol protected Mourvèdre from wide-spread destruction during the phylloxera infestation that largely wiped-out plantings elsewhere in France. As a result, Bandol became well-known for its red and particularly rosé wines made from Mourvèdre. Mourvèdre must comprise at least 50% of red and rosé wines produced in Bandol.

Mourvèdre, introduced to California as Mataro, thrives in the depleted, sandy, calcareous soils and heat of Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Contra Costa Counties, and the Sierra Foothills among others. Mourvèdre is not widely-planted in California, only 800 or so acres are planted. Oregon and Washington have very few acres. Some brave winemakers in Oregon and Washington do grow Mourvèdre though.

Mourvèdre produces compact bunches of smallish, dark, thick-skinned, sweet berries. The thick skins protect the berries from splitting due to rain late in the growing season. Flavors and aromas produced by this variety are described as meaty, earthy and fruity, like berries and plums. It has good structure with ample tannins.

So, with that introduction, let’s see what the winemakers have for us to taste.

2012 Tercero Rosé of Mourvèdre $18. This tank sample of the soon-to-be-released vintage is made from grapes grown in the Happy Canyon American Viticultural Area (AVA). This relatively new AVA, designated in 2009, is located in the easternmost portion of the Santa Ynez Valley. Happy Canyon is the smallest AVA in Santa Barbara County and is unique for its warm climate, soil types (loam, clay loam with high mineral content and low nutrients) and hillside geography.

Larry Schaffer explained that the grapes for this vintage were not overly ripe. They were harvested at 22.5 brix. Saignée has been used in prior vintages, but juice for this vintage spent two hours on the skins and was then pressed. Strawberry scents and flavors dominate this very flavorful salmon-colored wine. The finish was long and clean with good acidity. I will definitely be looking for this wine for the summer. Tercero also makes Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Syrah and other Rhone varietals. This wine compares favorably to the Bandols I have tasted. Highly recommended! Their tasting room is in Los Olivos, CA.

2010 Holly’s Hill El Dorado Petit Patriarche $20. This wine is a blend of 83% Mourvèdre, 14% Grenache, 3% Syrah. Josh Bendick described Mourvèdre as their favorite at the winery. The estate vineyards, located south of Placerville in the Pleasant Valley area of El Dorado County, reach to 2700 feet in elevation and are planted entirely with Rhone varieties. This wine had complex spice, earth and ripe berry flavors, was very light in the mouth and had significant tannins.

2010 Folin Cellars Mourvèdre $34. Folin Cellars is located in Gold Hill, Oregon within the Bear Creek Valley area of the Rogue Valley AVA in southern Oregon. Rob Folin described his winemaking style as old world, incorporating the use of neutral oak and larger casks along with minimal intervention. Days are hot in Gold Hill, but cool significantly at night. The climate makes the late-ripening Mourvèdre a challenge for the winemaker. Only two barrels of this 100% Mourvèdre were produced in 2010. Scents of berries and spice rose from the glass and flavors of dark berries with a bit of cedar combined with smooth tannins to produce a somewhat restrained wine. This wine is elegance in a glass.

2010 David Girard Vineyards Mourvèdre $34. David Girard Vineyards is located in Placerville, California. Winemaker Mari Wells noted this 1300 foot elevation vineyard is located on a north facing slope along the American River. Vines are trimmed for maximum shading and aeration. Mari enjoys making this varietal because she enjoys the way it changes over time. This very dark ruby wine had a ripe rich nose with earthy, ripe dark fruit flavors and spice. Tannins were well-integrated in this complex wine. This is more of a warm-weather style of wine.

2009 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley $36. Ken Volk spoke enthusiastically about the Enz Vineyard, located in the tiny and not well-known Lime Kiln Valley AVA located in San Benito County. This dry-farmed vineyard was planted in 1922 on soil consisting of limestone and decomposed granite. This dark ruby wine has ample, but more restrained berry flavors and spice flavors with well-integrated tannins. This was a lighter style of Mourvèdre to my palate. Very nice. It was one of my favorites.

2010 Villa Creek Damas Noir Mourvedre $45. Cris Cherry is owner and winemaker. The fruit for this vintage originated from three vineyard sites, Denner, James Berry and Luna Matta, on the west side of Paso Robles in the Peachy Canyon area. This very dark ruby wine had very complex dark fruit with spice, black pepper, earthy flavors and smooth well-integrated tannins. Over time the flavors became more complex. This was on of my favorite wines.

2010 Tablas Creek Vineyard Vin de Paille, Sacrérouge $65. Tablas Creek Vineyard is a partnership between the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands. Jason Haas, director of marketing, brought us a very different wine. The mourvèdre was harvested at usual ripeness, but then dried on straw-covered benches until the desired concentration was achieved (about three weeks). The fruit is then crushed under foot. Fermentation begins in open-top containers and is finished in oak barrels. The flavors of this wine are sweet with concentrated dark plums and good acidity. Surprisingly, Jason told us the ABV is only 13.1%. This tastes more like a fortified wine. This dessert wine was a sweet and surprising end to the tasting.

This group of Mourvèdre all had some common flavors. Many had earthy, loamy flavors along with spice and black pepper. Fruit flavors ranged from berries to dark fruit and plums. Tannins in all of these wines were perceptible but well-integrated.

None of these wines were watery in the mouth. All had adequate weight and body. None were tasted over-ripe or overly alcoholic. They all tasted really nice on their own, but will pair very well with food. Think roasted chicken, roasted meats, maybe even barbecued pork. Anything with mushrooms. A very tasty, versatile group of wines. I would consider drinking this wine even in the summer, an “all weather wine”. Now I know why winemakers bother with this difficult variety. Well done winemakers!

Cheers!

Reference: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Jose Vouillamoz