We recently had the opportunity to taste a selection of six white wines courtesy of the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association as part of #winechat on Twitter. The timing could not have been more perfect. With summer temperatures well into the “hot” range, white wines are definitely in order.
The climate of Santa Barbara County is dominated by breezes that sweep in from the Pacific Ocean along a number of east-west running valleys. This east-west orientation is unusual for California, most run north-south. This orientation keeps the areas close to the ocean cooler, funnels cool air into the warmer interior which makes for very cool nights thus creating a true cool-climate growing region.
The climate and soil types are variable within the county and four AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) have been designated to acknowledge these unique growing areas.
Santa Maria Valley AVA is the northern most AVA and was recognized in 1981, then expanded in 2010. Ocean breezes bring fog into the valley morning and evening. In between and the sun warms temperatures in the valley, though not usually above 75 degrees.
The marine soils within the AVA are generally well drained and sandy with various types of loam with underlying gravel. Rainfall within the AVA averages around 14 inches.
Santa Ynez Valley AVA is a long east-west running valley with cool temperatures nearer the ocean and warmer temperatures inland. It is the largest of the Santa Barbara AVAs. Two sub AVAs have been designated within the Santa Ynez Valley AVA to recognize the diversity in climate. Sta. Rita Hills is located in the western, cooler portion of the Valley and Happy Canyon is located in the warmer more eastern portion. The Santa Ynez Valley has the largest concentration of wineries in the county. The diversity in climate accommodates a large number of grape varieties.
The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is relatively small, only 100 square miles, and lies within the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, typically has cool foggy mornings and evenings with warmer mid-day temperatures. Soil types are sedimentary with limestone. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive in this cool climate.
Originally designated in 2001 as Santa Rita Hills, the name was altered to the current Sta. Rita Hills in 2006 after concerns were voiced by the Chilean winery Vina Santa Rita that the name “diluted its international trademark”.
Designated in 2009, Happy Canyon AVA, located on the eastern portion of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, is the newest and smallest AVA within Santa Ynez Valley.
Morning fog followed by summer temperatures into the mid-90s allows Bordeaux and Rhone varieties to thrive in this warm AVA. Soil is loam and clay loam with cobbles, high mineral content and poor nutrients. This produces small grape vines with a low yield but fruit with concentrated flavors.
These six white wines are sourced from vineyards all around Santa Barbara County. Let’s see what they tasted like.
2010 Fontes & Phillips Sauvignon Blanc $18. Just a bit of dried hay on the nose, followed by citrus, minerals and a bit more dried hay. The finish is clean and juicy thanks to great acidity. This wine had a lovely balance of flavors and acidity. I did not find this wine overly grassy, just a hint of dried hay in the background. It is easy to sip on its own, but would easily accompany a light summer meal.
It is the intent of the winemaker, Alan Phillips, to create a Sauvignon Blanc in the New Zealand style and preserve the natural flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. Grapes are 100% from the Santa Ynez Valley AVA. Whole cluster press, followed by cold fermentation in stainless steel is used. 112 cases were produced.
All Fontes & Phillips wine bottles are labeled by the winery owners, Rochelle Fontes and Alan Phillips, with hand-made pewter labels crafted in South America.
2012 Baehner Fournier Vineyards Voglelzang Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $20. Mostly melon with just a bit of dried hay scents and tropical fruit flavors combine with crisp acidity. This flavorful Sauvignon Blanc sips well on its own and would be a good dinner companion as well.
Produced from one row in the Vogelzang Vineyard located in the warm Happy Canyon AVA, grapes were harvested in the cool morning hours. Fruit was de-stemmed then lightly crushed and allowed to macerate on the skins for four hours before gentle pressing. Fermentation started in stainless steel and finished in neutral oak barrels. The goal with this Sauvignon Blanc is a style similar to white Bordeaux.
2011 Palmina Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Arneis $20. Hints of marzipan on the nose are repeated in the flavors with mineral and citrus flavors. Bright acidity and layers of flavor produce a long, clean finish. This wine has an unusual and pleasant flavor profile, one that is difficult to fully describe.
Pronounced ahr-NAYZ, this grape variety originated in the Piedmont region in northwest Italy. Its name translates to “little rascal”, so named because the variety is difficult to grow and vinify. Fruit comes from the Honea Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley AVA. Whole clusters are crushed into both stainless steel and neutral oak where it is left to ferment naturally with indigenous yeast. Aging for one year take place prior to bottling, with a further six months in the bottle prior to release.
Arneis is not widely planted in the US, but there are a few plantings in California and Oregon. This unusual wine varietal is worth seeking out. I will be looking for more to try. Palmina specializes in making wines from Italian varieties in the Santa Barbara style.
2010 Imagine Pearl Paradise Mountain Viognier $24. Just a hint of minerality on the nose, not the usually floral scents I associate with Viognier. Flavors of caramel, butter and spice with adequate acidity and a roundness in the mouth make for a unique Viognier. Refreshing and food friendly.
The grapes come from the Paradise Road Vineyard (but designated as Paradise Mountain by Imagine Wine) in the Santa Ynez Valley AVA at an elevation of 1000 feet. The vineyard receives three times more rainfall than lower elevations and lots of sun late in the growing season.
Vinification began with de-stemming and crushing, then the must spent 24 hours on the skins before pressing and initial fermentation in stainless steel. 50% is aged in new French oak for 10-12 weeks and 50% remains in stainless steel. This combination allows for complex flavors and aromas and in the winemaker’s view makes this wine age worthy for up to 5-6 years.
2012 Summerland Winery Sierra Madre Chardonnay $35. Scents of melon combine with mineral and grapefruit flavors from the fruit and spiciness from the oak. The wine is a bit round in the mouth and has a long finish. This wine spends only three months in oak, 50% new Allier.
The Chardonnay fruit is sourced from the Sierra Madre Vineyard located in the Santa Maria Valley AVA. The vineyard is located in the western portion of the AVA, only 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Cool ocean breezes and fog keep temperatures in the 65 to 75 degree range. Sandy to sandy loam soils provide good drainage and little in the way of nutrients producing low yields and concentrated fruit.
2010 Brewer-Clifton Gnesa Chardonnay $48. Citrus and minerals on the nose, followed by lemon and grapefruit flavors. Bracing acidity and an extremely light body make for clean, crisp Chardonnay. This exquisite wine would be an amazing partner for a rich, creamy dish, that is if you didn’t sip it all before the food arrived. This wine is extremely easy to drink.
The Gnesa Vineyard (pronounced KNEE-sa) is hidden away in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Only four acres in size, the vineyard is planted on sandy soil and has a coveted northern exposure which gets only morning sun. Clifton-Brewer have been sourcing Chardonnay from this vineyard since 2007 and have been responsible for farming the vineyard since 2009.
This group of white wines from Santa Barbara County was very interesting. I always approach Sauvignon Blanc with a bit of trepidation. I am not a fan of the marked grassiness many Sauvignon Blancs exhibit, it’s just not my thing. Neither of these wines exhibited those scents and flavors. Both of these wines had a pleasing combination of dried hay and straw flavors combined with tropical fruits that made them flavorful and pleasing to drink. Both have good acidity. These are Sauvignon Blancs I would order in a restaurant.
The two Chardonnays are a study in contrasting styles. The Summerland Chardonnay is rounder and spicier with a long finish. If you like the taste of wood-influence in a Chardonnay, you will enjoy this wine. The Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay is austere, toned and crisp. The flavor of the grape comes through nicely. Pick your favorite style, both are delicious.
The Imagine Pearl Paradise Mountain Viognier was a surprise. The wood treatment changes the usual floral flavors I associate with Viognier and makes it a food-friendly wine with a rounder mouth feel. Once again, a different style. Interesting expression of the winemakers vision for Viognier.
The Palmina Arneis drew me in completely. The unique flavors, light body and great acidity are the perfect combination for summer. Interestingly, this wine became more flavorful and complex in the days after we first opened it. I will look for this wine on wine lists and will certainly look for other examples of Arneis to compare with this very delicious wine.
Hats off to these winemakers in Santa Barbara County. You have certainly made the most of your unique climate and terroir. Thanks to all of you, and to the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association for providing us with these samples of your work. This of course is only a small sampling of what is available in Santa Barbara County wines. With 17,000 acres planted in over 50 grape varieties the the potential is enormous. I hope this sampling is enough to get you out there looking for and tasting Santa Barbara County wines. I know we will be doing exactly that this fall. I can hardly wait to visit this diverse wine region.
Thanks also to the #winechat folks for organizing this opportunity to taste and talk about Santa Barbara wines. Talking about wine is my second favorite thing; tasting it, of course, is my first.
Cheers!
Reference: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz
