Just about one year ago, we tasted a selection of saké made by SakéOne, a premium saké brewer located in Forest Grove, Oregon. We were sent several samples of infused saké and cocktail recipes using those sakés. We tasted the sakés on their own and used them to make cocktails. We wrote about that experience in a prior post.
We recently received four tasting samples from SakéOne and participated in a tasting via Twitter. We learned quite a bit about SakéOne and how saké is made.
SakéOne began importing Japan’s premium sake in 1992 (as Momokawa Saké Ltd) and eventually became a brewer of premium saké with the completion of the brewery (known as a kura in Japanese) in 1997. SakéOne’s Greg Lorenz, one of only a handful of American saké brewers, learned his craft from some of Japan’s leading brewers and by experience at the Oregon brewery. He is a self-described “lab geek” who enjoys understanding saké production by learning how the organisms involved in the brewing work together. He finds it exciting that the process involves both molds and yeasts.
Premium saké is made from rice, water, koji (Aspergillus mold spores) and yeast. The brewing process begins with milling the rice to remove the outer layers of each grain. These outer layers contain fats and proteins which can impart unwanted flavors and aromas during fermentation. The degree of milling determines the quality of the premium sake. The three levels are: 50% remaining (Janmai Daigingo and Daiginjo), 60% remaining (Junmai Ginjo and Gingo) and 70% remaining (Junmai and Honjozo). SakéOne mills 40% each rice grain away, leaving 60%.
The rice used to produce saké in Japan, sakamai, is specifically developed for this purpose. It is very high in starch which is concentrated at the core of each rice grain. SakéOne uses rice grown in California’s Sacramento Valley exclusively and has established a relationship with a grower who is producing Calrose variety M401 specifically for their saké production.
After milling, the rice is washed and steamed. This is one reason a source of pure water is so integral to the brewing process. Soak time and steaming are closely monitored and when the process is complete the koji (Aspergillus oryzae) mold spores are applied to the rice. Specific strains of koji impart unique aromas and flavors and are selected for this reason. The koji digests the starch in each grain of rice converting it to sugar.
At this point fresh yeast, propagated in the brewery, is introduced to the koji rice along with water (that fresh water again) and steamed rice. The fermentation process begins here and continues for several weeks. The yeast, just like the koji, will introduce unique flavors and aromas to the process.
The fermentation is monitored and when the desired flavors and alcohol content are achieved the sediment is pressed out, the liquid is pasteurized and aging begin. After this process is completed the brew is filtered, pasteurized a second time and bottled.
The process can take as long as seven months to complete and is very hands-on. The saké brew master is involved in every step of the process in order to draw out the flavors of the rice. Greg has a detailed understanding of the complexities of each step in the process and how all components work together to produce the unique flavors and texture of the saké he produces.
This is a simplified overview of the process. As noted above, premium saké is produced from rice, water, koji and yeast. But, some premium saké does contain a small amount of distilled alcohol to enhance flavor and fragrance (Daiginjo, Ginjo and Honjozo). Not all saké is pasteurized and some is diluted with water after brewing to reduce the ABV from 20% to 15% or so. Also, not all saké is filtered, some is left slightly cloudy (Nigori). These are choices made by the sakémaster depending on the specific flavors and style of saké being produced.
Premium saké production in Japan accounts for about 20% of total saké production and it is largely what’s imported into the US. Premium saké is intended to be consumed chilled, using a white wine glass. This will maximize the flavors and aromas of the saké. No more drinking heated saké from small ceramic cups!
Now, a bit about each of the sakés we received as tasting samples:
Murai Family Tokubetsu Honjozo $25. First the label: Tokubetsu on the label means “special” and refers to additional milling or a special kind of rice used in the brewing. Honjozo means the rice is milled to 70% remaining and that alcohol has been added. This saké is imported from Japan and the rice has been milled to 60% (below the 70% requirement). It has earthy flavors and a round mouthfeel. A bit rustic tasting. ABV is 15.5%.
SakeMoto Junmai $11. This imported saké has had no alcohol added and is milled to 70%. ABV is 14.7%. It has floral scents and flavors and overall was more flavorful than the Murai Family. It is a bit rounder in the mouth as well.
Yoshinogawa Winter Warrior Junmai Gingo $27 is polished to 60% and has had no alcohol added. ABV 14%. The nose and flavors are very fruity – tropical fruits – with more complexity. This would be a great saké for spicy Asian food. It is imported.
G Fifty Junmai Ginjo Genshu $25. This Junmai Ginjo sake is undiluted, meaning no water is added to it after brewing. The ABV is 18%. This saké had the most flavor to my palate. It was a combination of pears and flower scents and flavors. A bit more alcohol contrasted nicely with the fruit and floral flavors. Produced by SakéOne in Forest Grove, Oregon.
As you probably noticed there are no vintage dates for any of these sakés. In general, saké is intended to drink and not hold for aging. They do not age well, except (you knew there would be an exception, right?) Koshu saké which is made to age and can do so for decades, becoming darker with age.
In general these sakés would be good with any Asian dish, sushi, fish, chicken or other lighter fare. They are flavorful and refreshing. They do lack the acidity of wine and have a very round feel in the mouth to me. I think they would be particularly enjoyable during warmer weather and offer a pleasant change from wine. Alcohol levels can be higher than wine.
No cork screw is required. All of these bottles have a screw cap closure. Very portable.
Finally, you will notice when shopping for this saké, that they contain no sulfites. That might be very important to some consumers.
The May 31, 2013 issue of Wine Spectator has two very interesting and detailed articles about saké. They are worth your time if you are interested in reading more about saké production, reviews and the popularity of premium saké in the US.
Thank you to SakéOne for providing the tasting samples.
Cheers!
