The tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton last Thursday night was all about Chile. We tasted six wines, two of which George told us were Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Carménère. Our assignment for the evening was to identify the two Cabernets. As an aside, George wanted us to think about whether Carménère could be a substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon. Would it taste good with similar kinds of food? George raised this question because many Carménères from Chile are quite reasonably priced. One must always consider cost.
Carménère originated in the Gironde (the Medoc region of Bordeaux), and it is one of the six original varieties allowed in the production of Bordeaux wines. Carménère was essentially wiped out by phylloxera in the 1870s. It was a poor producer and very few acres remain in Bordeaux.
Carménère was introduced to Chile in the mid-1800s and thrived in the warmer climate. It was planted as a field blend with Merlot. Until 1997, when Carménère’s identity was confirmed by DNA analysis, it was often thought to be Merlot. Carmemere was officially recognized as a variety in Chile in 1998.
The warmer, longer growing season in Chile allows Carménère to fully ripen. It is the offspring of Cabernet Franc, as is Cabernet Sauvignon. Let’s see what these wines have to offer.
2009 Marquez de Casa Concha Carménère – this inky-dark wine had ripe dark fruit and asphalt on the nose with similar fruit flavors and vegetal undertones. Tannins were smooth and the finish was fairly long with both flavor and tannins. Great barbecue wine.
2008 Korta Reserve Carménère – another inky-dark wine with dark fruit, a bit of vanilla and vegetal flavors. Tannins were a bit more grippy than the previous wine. Overall, this wine was lighter and less intense than the prior wine. Good with roasted meats.
2008 Korta Gran Reserva – dark fruit, caramel and asphalt are evident on the nose. Plum and red fruit flavors upfront with vegetal flavors in the background combine with slightly grippy tannins and good acidity to produce an elegant and complex wine. This blend of 40% Petit Verdot, 20% Carménère, 20% Syrah and 20% Cabernet Franc produced more complex flavors than either of the two prior wines.
2005 Santa Ema Catalina – green olives, jalapeno and asphalt combine to produce a complex nose. Ripe, rich dark fruit flavors, jalapeno and a bit of sweetness with significant grippy tannins created a flavor profile similar to the Korta Gran Reserva, but a bit sweeter. The flavors are still very youthful. This wine is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Carménère, 7% Cabernet Franc. The group thought this was a Cabernet. Nice job! At $35 it is the most expensive wine of the group. It’s not everyday that you see a cloth label on a wine bottle, however.
2011 Gryphus Cabernet Sauvignon – this wine was a 
lighter ruby color than the prior wines. The nose was more restrained. Fruit flavors predominate, but more tart fruit than the prior wines with a bit of tobacco. Acid was more perceivable in this wine than the prior wines and tannins were smooth and well-integrated. Overall, this was a less ripe-tasting wine. The group thought this was a Cabernet. Once again, well done!
2009 Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Malbec – this wine looked very young in the glass with a bit of violet around the edges. The scents and flavors were all fruit, sweet cherries and plums, with slightly grippy tannins. A bit of cedar popped in at the finish which was a pleasant surprise.
So, the tasting ended up including Malbec along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère. That’s how these tastings go. The Carménère were priced from $11 to $18.75. That puts them in the everyday drinking wine price range for most of us. As mentioned above, the Santa Ema Catalina was the most expensive at $35 and the Malbec came in at $22. Also affordable. Can Carménère substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon? Depends on your taste preference, really. If you like the taste of Carménère, or if that’s what you are in the mood to drink, then most certainly consider Chilean Carménère as a choice.
So, my conclusion…Chile is a good place to look for reasonably priced red wines, especially if you enjoy a bit of vegetal character in the wines you drink. The combination of ripe fruit with green olive and jalapeno can be very pleasing. They will pair well with most anything you cook on the barbecue. And barbecue season is upon us.
Cheers!
Reference: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz
