We have found much to like about the 2010 Bordeaux vintage. Lots of fruit flavors, a variable amount of complexity, plenty of tannins and modest wood influence, to name just a few of our favorite qualities. We continued our tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton with Bordeaux from Saint-Julien.
There has been a method to this series of tastings. The first was a sampling of various regions within Bordeaux, kind of an overview. Next came Margaux and now Saint-Julien. The next two tastings will cover Pauillac by itself and Saint-Estèphe, as part of a final overview of Bordeaux. These four appellations are considered the “famous four” of Haut-Médoc. We are progressing northwest from the city of Bordeaux along the Gironde estuary. Saint-Julien is # 5 on this map.
You can see from the map that Saint-Julien is very small. Though it is small in size, this appellation is important. Eleven Classified Growths are located here, though none are classified as 1st Growth, there are five very highly-regarded 2nd Growth Châteaux (Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Poyferre, Leoville Barton, Gruaud-Larose and Ducru-Beaucaillou). The three Leoville estates were once one large estate. In addition, 80% of vineyards in Saint-Julien are classified, according to Johnson and Robinson.
Once again, the soil is gravelly with variable amounts of clay and sand forcing the grapevines to work hard to put down roots and extract nutrients. Johnson and Robinson describe the wines of Saint-Julien this way ” If Pauillac makes the most striking and brilliant wine of the Médoc, and Margaux the most refined and exquisite, St-Julien forms the transition between the two. With comparatively few exceptions its châteaux make rather round and gentle wine – gentle, that is, when it is mature; it starts as tough and tannic in a good year as any.”
All wines were opened an hour before the tasting and double-decanted.
2010 Connétable Talbot — ruby colored in the glass, complex scents of dark fruit, caramel and black tea are followed by a combination of plum and tobacco flavors. Moderate tannins and adequate acid combine with the flavors to produce a moderate length finish. This wine tastes good now. Will it improve with age? Some tasters thought the flavors might not be complex enough. Aromas were very promising. ABV 13.5%.
This wine is the second wine of Château Talbot which is classified a 4th Growth. The vineyards cover 107 hectares (264 acres), planted on gravelly soil overlaying limestone. The blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.
2010 Château Du Glana — this wine was inky-dark in the glass with a bit of ruby-violet at the edges. Ripe plum and blackberry scents were obvious. Blackberry and blueberry flavors combine with lots of acid and moderate grippy tannins to provide a long finish with both flavor and tannins. ABV 14%.
This wine provoked much discussion with regard to the tannins. Some tasters felt there were lots of tannins, including some bitterness, others though the tannins were much less prominent. In any event, this wine tasted more complex than the first wine.
Château Du Glana, classified as Cru Bourgeois, has increased its acreage to 59 hectares (146 acres) planted on gravelly soil. The average age of the vines (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot) is 25 years. The 2010 vintage blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and aging was 12 months in 40% new French oak.
2010 Amiral de Beychevelle — another very dark ruby colored wine with aromas of earth and sweet berries. Flavors of plums and blackberries combine with marked acidity which gave the wine a light weight in the mouth and an almost saline quality. The tannins were significant and grippy. This wine was a mouthful of big flavors and tannins. ABV 13.5%.
Amiral de Beychevelle is the second wine of Château Beychevelle which is classified as 4th Growth. The 2010 blend of the Amiral De Beychevelle is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. According to Château Beychevelle the Amiral de Beychevelle is “Made according to the same secular tradition as its glorious elder, it reveals its qualities earlier, giving the wine-lover all the vivacity of youth.” So, this wine is intended to be enjoyed in its youth.
2010 Château Gloria — very dark ruby color with aromas of tobacco, coffee and dark fruit. Flavors of dark plums, blackberries and spice mix with moderate, slightly grippy tannins and good acidity. This wine is full-flavored and well-balanced. It tastes good now, but will most certainly continue to improve with age. It seems a shame to drink it now. ABV 13.5%.
Château Gloria, unclassified though highly-regarded, is a recent estate in Saint-Julien. Henri Martin began purchasing small vineyard parcels in 1942, eventually putting together 50 hectares (123 acres) for the production of Château Gloria. He purchased parcels only from grands cru classified estates. Vineyards are located around the village of Beychevelle and to the north and west bordering Pauillac.
The vineyards, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, are planted in soil that is is gravel over clay and sand. The average age of the vines is 40 years. Vinification begins in stainless steel, with malolactic fermentation in barrels and aging in 40% new oak for 14 months.
Since Henri Martin’s death in 1991 the estate has been managed by his daughter, Françoise and son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud.
Once again, a great group of wines with very modest alcohol levels. The next tasting will highlight wines from Pauillac as we move north to the next appellation in Haute-Médoc.
Cheers!
Reference: The World Atlas of Wine, 7th edition. Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson
