Our continuing 2010 vintage Bordeaux tasting at Fine Wines of Stockton brings us to Pauillac. Located just north of Saint-Julien along the left bank of the Gironde estuary, it is home to an amazing three of the five châteaux classified as 1st Growth (Lafite Rothschild, Latour and Mouton Rothschild). An additional 15 otherwise classified estates are located within Pauillac as well.
Once again, soil is predominantly gravel. Elevation “rises” to about 100 feet in areas, but is generally relatively flat. Wines produced in Pauillac are thought of by some as being typical of the best Bordeaux has to offer, producing wine with fruit flavors and oak influences which allow the wines to age long and well. This applies not only to the highest classified châteaux in the Pauillac AOC, which is good for those of us who cannot afford to drink 1st Growths.
Wine styles are of course variable within Pauillac. George described the opposite styles of Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Latour; Lafite being one of “finesse” and Latour as “a tannic monster”.
One more note. Château Mouton Rothschild, originally classified as a 2nd Growth in the April 1855 classification, was moved-up to 1st Growth in 1973. The change is one of only two major classification changes made to the original 1855 list (the other was the inclusion of Château Chantemerle as 5th Growth later in 1855).
Here’s what we tasted. The wines were opened about an hour ahead of the tasting and double-decanted to bring out aromas and flavors in these relatively young wines.
2010 Château d’Armailhac – the wine is very dark ruby in the glass with complex aromas of dark fruit and spice. Layers of dark fruit flavors and tobacco combine with significant, drying tannins. This wine is a mouthful of flavor and texture with a medium body and a long finish with both flavor and tannins. If you plan to drink this big, flavorful wine now you will need flavorful food to go with it. Otherwise, wait a few years for it to smooth-out. ABV 13.5%.
The history of Château d’Armailhac dates back to 1680 with a land register documenting vineyard plantings in 1750. The vineyard was eventually called Mouton d’Armailhacq and was classified as 5th Growth in the 1855 classification of Bordeaux. It underwent several ownership and name changes, eventually becoming the property of Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1934. More name changes took place over the years, with the current name taken in 1989. Whew!
The gravelly soil of Château d’Armailhac is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The average age of the vines is 46 years, with 20% dating back to 1890.
The 2010 blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 23%, Cabernet Franc 15%, Petit Verdot 2%. Aging is in 1/3 new oak, 1/3 one year-old oak and 1/3 in two year-old oak. Vinification takes place in facilities shared with Château Mouton Rothschild.
2010 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse – very dark ruby color, aromas of ripe, rich dark fruit are followed by ripe dark fruit, cocoa and cedar. The tannins are significant, grippy and and slightly bitter to me. The finish is long with fruit, but the tannins last longer. Most tasters noted a more significant wood influence in this wine and agreed it should be held for several years. ABV 14.5%
The history of Château Grand-Puy Ducasse begins with the purchase of a small house by Arnaud Ducasse on the banks of the Gironde in the middle of the 17th century. Subsequent generations bought parcels in three locations within Pauillac and the estate, then called Artigues Arnaud, was classified 5th Growth in the 1855 classification. The Château was eventually purchased by CA Grands Crus, a subsidiary of the Groupe Crédit Agricole in 2004.
A total of 99 acres are planted with 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot. The average age of the vines is 24 years. The 2010 blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Aging is from 18 to 24 months in French oak barrels, 30% to 40% of which are new.
2010 Réserve De La Comtesse – a bit of burned match is followed by aromas of sweet dark fruit then flavors of raspberries and ripe plums. It has good acidity, moderate tannins that are well-integrated and a moderate length finish. Most tasters thought this wine was not as big as the two prior wines, and tastes good now. On the other hand, it is well-balanced and should age very nicely. ABV 14%.
We tasted this wine at the first 2010 Bordeaux tasting in October. It did not taste familiar to me. At the prior tasting I noted cedar flavors and thought the tannins were more significant. I did not note the burned match on the nose in the prior tasting. The prior wines in this tasting may have influenced how I tasted the tannins in this wine, as they were both quite tannic.
The Réserva De La Comtesse is the second wine of Château Pichon Longeville Comtesse de Lalande, which is classified as a 2nd Growth. The 2010 blend is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot.
2010 Château Haut-Batailley – very dark ruby in the glass with a sweet nose of perfume and vanilla. Complex dark fruit flavors combine with good acidity, moderate grippy tannins for a moderate length finish. Hold this wine for a while if you want reduced tannins. Otherwise, tastes good now. ABV 13.5%
Classified as 5th Growth, Château Haut-Batailley is produced by Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, also a 5th Growth. The 2010 blend is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Aging is in 50% new French oak.
This group of wines mostly had a bit more tannins than the prior tasting from Saint-Julien, and plenty of flavor as well. These wines are definitely made for the long-haul. It seems a shame to drink them now. I may have said that once or twice before regarding the 2010 Bordeaux.
Our next and final 2010 Bordeaux tasting in this series will be wines from through out Bordeaux that we have not previously tasted. Can’t wait.
Cheers!
Reference: The World Atlas of Wine, 7th edition. Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson
