We tasted six wines from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain this week. Ribera del Duero is a larger plateau about 60 miles north of Madrid. The elevation ranges from 2000 to 3000 feet and the weather ranges from very hot summers to very cold winters. The hot summer days also have cool nights which gives the wines great acidity. Evidence suggests they have been making wine in the area for around 2000 years. Unfortunately we were unable to find any of those older vintages to try so we tried wines from 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2010.
While there is a white varietal grown (Albillo) in the area, Ribera del Duero is really a red wine region with Tinto Fino or Tempranillo, as we know it, being the most common varietal. There is also some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec grown, usually for blending. When Alejandro Fernandez produced his 100% Tempranillo, Tinto Pesquera, there was a lot of controversy as even the most famous wine of the area at the time, Vega Sicilia, was a blend. While neighboring Rioja also produces Tempranillo wines, Ribera del Duero has a reputation of wines that age better and longer.
Our first wine to try was the 2010 Vina Gormaz Tempranillo. It was a dark ruby color with a floral, red fruit rose nose and a little tobacco and lilies. There were tart red fruit flavors with significant grippy tannins and good acid. A young tasting wine that may become more interesting with time.
Next we had the 2005 Spiga Red Wine which was a very dark ruby. There was dark fruit and cinnamon on the nose. There was a vegetal tobacco and leather flavor along with some dark fruit. There were lots of grippy, drying tannins and a lot of acid, although the tannins gave it a slightly bitter finish. This would be good with BBQ or leg of lamb. The tannins may calm down with time and this will probably age very well.
We moved on to the 2006 Condado de Haza. This had an interesting garnet color. Initially the nose was a little stinky which blew off leaving a fairly closed nose of red fruit. Then there were concentrated dried fruit flavors and big tannins with plenty of acid. Very well balanced, understated but elegant, much like a nice Bordeaux.
Our fourth wine was a 2007 Emelio Moro. Along with the dark ruby color there were lilies initially on the nose. There were big complex dark fruit flavors. It tasted like a brighter (younger) version of the Condado de Haza. Moderate grippy tannins and good acid. Tastes like this could become something really great in a few years.
Next to last we tried the 2007 Cepa 21. It had a very dark ruby color but a minimal nose with slight scent of lilies, seems to be a common smell in these wines. In the flavor dark fruit predominates with significant grippy tannins and good acid.
Last but not least was the 2008 Tinto Pasquera. It very dark ruby, violet color, initially with a stinky nose which transitioned into light red fruit. There were tart fruit flavors with significant tannins and a lot of acid. Overall, a riper style of wine than the rest we tasted. Still a very nice wine especially with a little cheese.
Conclusion: These wines are flavorful, but not over ripe. Tannins are significant with good acid, making these wines good food wines. Alcohol levels tend to stay at 14% or less. The wines go well with food and should age well if you cellar your wines.
