We just attended another tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at Fine Wines of Stockton. This time we were tasting the second label (Second Vin) of some of the better known producers. We also had one Sauternes to try.
Second labels are wines created when a producer has “extra” wine to sell after they have made the barrel selections for the first label. It could be some barrels just didn’t make the cut in the first label or maybe they came from very young or very old vineyards that weren’t producing at their best. It could also be the Merlot harvest was heavier this year so the second label may have more Merlot blended with the Cabernet than the first label. It could be the producer wants to have sell a more affordable wine without reducing the price on their flagship wine.
This practice began in the eighteenth century to allow a chateau to be more selective about the quality of there wine and has continued today. Usually you would expect the second label to be a very good wine, too. However, sometimes it is just a way to unload a bad vintage, current or previous. Sometimes the second label will evolve into a third label or another wine if they really have a lot of wine to get rid of.
The wines we tasted are listed below and were all very good. Some were bigger or had more structure or smoother or grippier tannins but they all had a good amount of fruit. The flavors varied somewhat but were more similar than different, mostly it was the amount of flavor and the structure that separated these wines.
2009 Croix De Beaucaillou – This wine was the favorite of the group by a strong majority. With a big fruit driven nose and plenty of dark fruit and leather flavors, there was great tannin structure well integrated with the flavor. It was a pleasure to drink with a long flavorful finish. This is the second label of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, a second growth in St. Julien and will age well if you have a cellar.
2009 Baron de Brane – The second label of second growth Chateau Brane-Catenac in Margaux this wine was more austere with lighter flavors and structure. If you want a lighter Bordeaux this would be a good choice as it was easier to drink now.
2009 Chateau La Tour de Mons – This is a Cru Superior and actually the first label, not their second. George put it in as an example of a less expensive first label to compare with the second labels. Plenty of flavor but the tannins were not integrated as well as the previous two wines. Pleasant to drink although it would be even better with some food. Meats and cheeses come to mind.
2009 Reserve de la Comtesse – This is the second label of Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, usually just called Pichon Lalande. Pichon Lalande, a second growth in Pauillac, has an interesting history and has been making a second label since the late 1800s. Reserve de la Comtesse wasn’t produced for sale until 1973, however. This was another bigger fruit forward wine, almost as well liked as the Croix De Beaucaillou by the group. This is a wine I would describe as “elegant”. Light bodied, good flavor and everything just fit together very well. Maybe the higher percentage of Merlot compared to other wines in Pauillac is what softens it.
2009 Lacoste-Borie – Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a fifth growth in Pauillac, is this wines first label. An interesting piece of trivia is Grand Puy is the name of the small gravelly hill the Chateau sits on along with Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse. There is also more Merlot in the second label here than the first label. This was a nice complex wine with a lot of flavor and a lot of tannins. The Lacoste-Borie was the second favorite wine of the group.
All of these were quite pleasant to drink and very flavorful with good structure. I think the biggest choice you will have to make is how much can you afford. The wines ranged in price from just over $30 to over $60.
Last we had a Sauterne, a 2009 Chateau de Malle, which was that beautiful yellow color they usually have. Chateau de Malle is a second growth and at $48 for a 750 ml bottle quite nicely priced for a Sauterne. The nose was exquisite, pineapple and apricot, and the flavor the same with the typical botrytis scent. This wine had plenty of acid and left your mouth nice and clean for such a sweet wine. One of the best Sauterne I have ever tasted.
It’s always great when you can participate in a wine tasting and walk away liking every wine you tried!
