We tasted Malbec from several areas of the world this last week. George and Gail were going to be out of town and asked me to hold the Thursday night tasting for them. I felt it would be a good time to revisit Malbec so Gail ordered some wines for us to try. She provided one Malbec from California, three from Argentina though one was an American producer, one from Chile and one from Cahors, France. I felt this would be an interesting mix. I always like a Cahors in the group when we taste Malbec and I didn’t know they produced any Malbec in Chile other than for blending.
I didn’t know any of these wines so I was unsure what order they should be poured in. I finally decided to pour the Chilean wine first so I could get a true taste of it before I tasted any others. It always seems the first taste memory sticks better than later ones. It turned out to be a good choice. It was the 2009 Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Gran Reserva (14% alc.) from the Colchaqua Valley. It was grown on the South Bank of the Tinguiririca River so the temperature is moderated by the river and coastal breezes. There was a big dark fruit nose, ripe dark fruit flavors with some vegetal and tobacco notes. A real nice complex wine with moderate tannins and good acid. This turned out to be the favorite wine of the group.
I followed the Concha y Toro with a California Malbec, the 2010 Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Malbec (13.5% alc.). The Coppola is a California Appellation so I don’t know where the grapes come from. I imagine some are from Napa and some from other areas in California, maybe the Central Valley. The nose was minimal with dark fruit flavors and somewhat bitter tannins and finish. Overall not a very interesting wine.
We moved on to the Argentinian Malbec that was bottled in Acampo, California. The 2011 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Malbec (13.5% alc.). The Mondavi was a blend of 88% Malbec, 7% Tannat and 5% Syrah. This had dark fruit (berries) and a little vanilla on the nose. The flavor followed the nose, sweet dark fruit and vanilla. Interestingly, the producers notes said there was no oak aging but the wine had vanilla notes. Moderate tannins and enough acid.
At this point I decided to jump across the pond to France. The 2010 Rigal “The Original” Malbec, 100% Malbec. The color was a dark ruby and the nose had dark berries and licorice. In the mouth there were tart cherries and berries. Plenty of acid with moderate tannins and a slightly bitter finish. While the flavors were pleasant the wine seemed awkward, out of balance.
Back to Argentina for the last two wines, the 2009 Argento Malbec Mendoza (13.5% alc.) and the 2009 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Estate Reserve (13.5% alc.). Initially the Argento had a stinky nose which really put you off. We decanted it and that cleaned it up and brought out more of the flavors. The Graffigna was the better wine and was the number two favorite. With a smokey, rubber tire and dark fruit nose, moderate tannins an good acid. The flavors were dark fruit and tobacco, a complex well balanced wine.
The evening was quite interesting and informative. I always like to compare the same varietal from different areas and see the similarities and differences.
