2008 Bordeaux Tasting Part One (Margaux)

We tasted six wines from the appellation of Margaux in Bordeaux, France this week. One was a white and the other five were red. Margaux is one of the fifty seven appellations in the area of Bordeaux, France. Margaux encompasses the city of Margaux and several other smaller villages and the surrounding area. When the 1855 classification was done Margaux had more wines classified than any other appellation. Also, Chateau Margaux was one of only four wineries awarded the status of Premier Cru, or what are often called “first growths”.

The first wine, a white, was actually from St. Emilion and not Margaux. It is labeled as a Bordeaux Cotes De Francs rather than a St. Emilion even though it comes from the appellation. Only white wine from Pessac Leognan is allowed to use the actual appellation name. The 2008 Chateau Les Charmes Godard is made from primarily Semillon along with some Sauvignon Blanc. The color was a straw yellow and the nose was mineral with floral notes. There was good acid and the flavors were mineral, floral and a slight yeastiness. The finish was long with plenty of flavor. I describe this as ripe and opulent. If you like California Chardonnay without much oak, you will like this.

The second wine was indeed a Margaux, the 2008 Chateau Ferriere (13% alc.), a Grand Cru Classe or third growth. This wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It was aged in oak barrels (35% new) for 18 months. The color was a medium garnet. The nose was restrained with dark fruit and tobacco. The flavor followed the nose, dark fruit and tobacco. The body was light and there were a lot of tannins. This wines needs some food to go along with it. The finish was long with fruit and tannins.

Next was a 2008 Chateau d’ Issan (13% alc.) another third growth or Grand Cru Classe. There was a slight stinkines in the nose, some people thought it was brettanomyces. There was tart red fruit, strawberries, in the flavor. The tannins were chewy and slightly bitter. I think this wine needs another three or four years in the cellar. I didn’t like this wine initially but when I went back and re-tasted it later it was much better.

Fourth we had the 2008 Blasson d’ Issan (13% alc.), the second wine of Chateau d’ Issan which is a third growth or Grand Cru Classe. Nancy thought the nose was slightly stinky while I got an earthiness or forest floor smell. The flavor was ripe red and dark fruit and tobacco with moderate slightly bitter tannins. The body was light but had plenty of flavor. This wine would be interesting to try in another four or five years.

The 2008 Marqis d’ Alesme (13% alc.) is another Grand Cru Classe from Margaux. The color was more ruby than garnet. There was a developed nose of dark fruit. The body was light with big tannins, big dark fruit and cedar flavors and good acidity. This wine had a long finish and I would cellar some for three to fours years and try it again.

The last wine was a 2008 Chateau Giscours (13% alc.), also an 1855 classified Grand Cru. This is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. There was a forward, very pleasant medium red and dark fruit nose. The flavors were like the nose along with some tobacco, cedar and some herbal notes. The moderate tannins were well integrated and plenty of acid. This wine is excellent now and should be for several more years.

Overall a good showing for some of the wines of Margaux. Next week we will tasting a few more wines from the appellation.

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