We all got together on CCA’s BrandLive Channel to taste and talk and tweet and ask questions of Camron King, Executive Director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission and well known Lodi winemaker Chad Joseph, who were on a live video feed telling us about each wine. These online tasting are really fun, you get to try several wines and learn about them at the same time.

As I mentioned there were four Rosé wines provided. Each was a different grape variety or blend of varieties but were surprisingly close in color, just minor differences in the intensity of the colors. The Sorelle Bella E Rossa and McCay Cellars just slightly lighter than the others.
The 2012 Heritage Oak is 100% Grenache and only 12.5% abv. Only 100 cases were made and the nose and flavor really make me think of Grenache. We all pick up different things but I get red roses from Grenache, nose and flavor. Also some melon and red fruit, great acidity. This was Nancy’s and Dave’s favorite.

The 2012 Sorelle Winery Bella E Rossa is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Barbera. Real refreshing, crisp, great spicy red fruit. Plenty of flavor without going too far. My only criticism would be the alcohol level at 14%. For a wine as nice to drink as this I want to sit in the backyard and drink more than one or two glasses.

McCay Cellars 2012 Rosé is made from 102 year old Carignane along with some Grenache. As I mentioned, just a little lighter color and a light mouthfeel. Very nice red fruit and mineral flavor with some undertones I can’t describe. A very nice blend of grapes. This is my favorite and what I will be drinking in the backyard later this afternoon.

Next we have the 2012 Onesta Bechtold Vineyard Rosé. The Bechtold vineyard was originally planted in 1886 and is the oldest vineyard in the Lodi AVA. It is dry farmed and the old vines are head trained. The wine is made from Cinsault and 50% is Saignée and the rest is fruit picked specifically to go in the rosé. There is a creamy mouthfeel and slight tannins as the wine is aged on the lees for six months. This mellows out the acidity and adds some roundness to the red fruit flavors.

I’ll have to say I am impressed with these Rosé wines from Lodi. Nancy and I have been on a rosé quest the past couple of years and have been trying wines from around the world. Lodi has really been improving over the recent years and if you like rosé you should certainly try these.

Disclaimer: These wines were provided as tasting samples.

I don’t know about you, but a pyramid is about the last thing I would expect to be associated with a winery. Sure, there are wineries with pyramid in the name, but Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna, British Columbia actually has a pyramid. It is a one-eighth scale reproduction of the Great Pyramid of Egypt.

Eric, Gabe and the winery dog

The Pyramid at Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Summerhill winemaker Eric von Krosigk took us on a tour of the pyramid. Built in alignment with true north, the pyramid is used to age wines. The temperature dropped noticeably as we ascended into the pyramid. A large crystal is suspended from the apex of the pyramid. Winery owner, Stephen Cipes, believes the energy of the pyramid enhances good wines and exaggerates flaws in poor wines.

As part of a WBC13 Breakout Session titled “Learning to be a Wine Judge” we tasted an unlabeled sparkling wine. We knew nothing about the wine as we tasted it, truly a blind tasting. Complex scents of nutmeg and cardamom combined with nutty, yeasty flavors. The delicate flavors were long-lasting. Eric, a member of the panel for the session, told us the wine was a 1996 Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Sparkling Wine. It is comprised of 59% Pinot Noir, 49% Chardonnay and 1% Viognier. Age certainly has produced unique and complex flavors. Eric explained the sparkling wine will be released “when the labels arrive”, leaving us with the impression things are never forced at Summerhill Pyramid Winery.

The pyramid is not the only notable thing about Summerhill. During our visit Eric spoke to us about wine production and the winery’s organic certification. It has been a goal since the Cipes family purchased the winery in 1986. Their cellar was Certified Organic in 2007.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Gabe Cipes, who has been responsible for developing biodynamic practices at the winery, talked about biodynamics and permaculture. The vineyard received Demeter Biodynamic Certification in 2012.

Permaculture is new to me. It is a philosophy that involves self-sustaining food production; working with nature to produce food. Gabe has introduced the principles to increase biodiversity within the vineyard by growing complimentary crops in the vineyard rows. The winery is convinced that growing grapes in the purest manner possible allows the best expression of terroir in their wines.

After touring the pyramid, we moved into the tasting room. Eric poured the soon-to-be released NV Cipes Rosé. This bright, sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé, is crisp with berry notes and a clean finish. A perfect lead-in to dinner.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Sparkling Rosé

Jesse Croy, executive chef of the winery’s restaurant Sunset Organic Bistro, and his staff prepared a five-course dinner for us. The organic meal included vegetables from Summerhill’s own culinary permaculture garden as well as local farmers and growers. Each course was paired with Summerhill Pyramid Winery wine — naturally!

I
Shoots & Roots
Radish Varieties & Their Sprouts, Asparagus, Germinated Bean Trio, Chilled Chèvre de Provence, Quinoa Rice Pudding & Garden Chimichurri Buttermilk Drizzle
NV Cipes Brut

Shoots & Roots

II
Spicy Scallops & Grilled Lakeshore Strawberries
House Cured Boar Pancetta, Fennel Puree, Rosehip Balsamic, Mint, Basil & Pistachios
2010 Syrah Rose

Spicy Scallops & Grilled Lakeshore Strawberries

Palate Cleanser
Gort’s Whey & Grapefruit Granita
Lilac Cordial Sparkling Water

Palate Cleanser

III
BC Spring Salmon
Lemon & Almond Potato Skordalia, Sea Beans, Arlo’s Spinach & Poached Quail Egg
2012 Riesling

BC Spring Salmon

IV
Char-Grilled Elk Medallions
“Rubarbeque” Tiger Blue Cheese Yam Gnocchi, Summerhill Arugula & Sunchoke Chips
2009 Cabernet Franc

Char-Grilled Elk Medallions

V
Chocolate Duo
Chocolate Gelato Ice Wine Float & Raspberry Dark Sacher Cake
Riesling Icewine

Chocolate Duo

We enjoyed the wines we tasted so much we visited the tasting room before leaving the winery. We purchased several bottles to take home with us. We are planning to do an Okanagan Valley wine tasting for our Thursday night wine tasting group. We will include some of these wines in that tasting, some we will keep for ourselves! Look for a post on that tasting in the next month or so.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery at Sunset

Sunset over Okanagan Lake from Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Thanks again to Tourism Kelowna and to Summerhill Pyramid Winery for providing this memorable experience. It was a great introduction to the food and wine of the Okanagan Valley.

Cheers!

Here is a brief pictorial of our wanderings around Penticton and of the Kelowna Pre-Excursion. We will follow-up with a detailed post in the days ahead. Enjoy.

Tuesday, June 4

Arrived at Kelowna International Airport in the afternoon, rented a car and drove south along Okanagan Lake to Penticton, site of the Wine Bloggers’ Conference. We checked-in at the Penticton Lakeside Resort and spent the afternoon walking around the city of Penticton enjoying the lake views and the gardens. Both were spectacular.

Penticton Lakeside Resort – view from our room

Penticton Lakeside Resort at dusk

Sculpture on Okanagan Lakeshore

Irises and Peony

Rhododendron

Lupine

Don’t know what these are called, but they are lovely.

Flowers in Penticton

Penticton Ikeda Japanese Garden

Ok, I will stop here. There are gardens everywhere!

Wednesday, June 5

Around mid-day we drove back up to Kelowna International Airport for the beginning of our Pre-Conference Excursion in Kelowna. We were greeted by Jenny from Tourism Kelowna, who drove us to Hotel Eldorado along the shore of Okanagan Lake. This hotel has a most interesting history, more about that in a future post.

Hotel Eldorado dockside

Our Room at the Hotel Eldorado

A winery tour and dinner at Summerhill Pyramid Winery followed.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Welcome

View of Okanagan Lake from Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Eric von Krosigk – Winemaker and
Gabe Cipes – Biodynamics/Permaculture

The Pyramid at Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Dinner Menu at Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Summerhill Pyramid Winery at Sunset

Thursday, June 6

Breakfast, tour and wine tasting at Tantalus Vineyards.

The Breakfast Menu at Tantalus Vineyards

Chef Mark Filatow describes the menu

Pete’s breakfast!

Into the vineyards to learn about vineyard practices.

Tantalus Winemaker, David and General Manager, Jane explain vineyard practices

Helen with honeycomb

Honeycomb tasting #yum

Tantalus Tasting Lineup

Winery and vineyard tour, with tasting in the vineyard followed by lunch at CedarCreek Estate Winery.

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Darryl Brooker – Winemaker

Newly planted Riesling Vineyard at CedarCreek Estate Winery

2012 CedarCreek Block 3 Riesling and Curried Chicken

2010 CedarCreek Home Block Pinot Noir and Mushroom Risotto Ball

Pulled Pork Sliders for Lunch

Thank you CedarCreek Estate Winery

Many thanks to Tourism Kelowna and the WBC13 staff for organizing the excursion. In particular, thanks to Jenny Rutherfurd and Catherine Frechette of Tourism Kelowna who shared their knowledge and enthusiasm for the area with us (and kept us organized and on time!).

Thank you as well to Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Tantalus Vineyards and CedarCreek Estate Winery whose winemakers and staff were so generous with their time and expertise.

What a great introduction to the wines of the Okanagan Valley.

Cheers!

We have written about South African wines in the past. Several of us in the tasting group are planning to visit the South African wine tasting region next year so we are interested to learn as much as we can about the area before our visit.

Cape Town was settled by the Dutch East India Company in 1652, essentially as a supply station for the company’s ships sailing between Europe and India. Early Dutch settlers planted vines, but had little experience in “vineyard management” or winemaking. 1659 was their first vintage.

Winegrowing and winemaking took a step forward with the appointment by the Dutch East India Company of Simon van der Stel as Commander of the Cape in 1679. Van der Stel was the first to possess the knowledge of both viticulture and winemaking. He was granted a farm in the Cape which he named Constantia. He produced good wines from the beginning. Over the years the property has been divided, but wine production continues to this day. Eventually named Groot Costantia, the winery provided an exiled Napoleon Bonaparte with wine on the island of St. Helena until his death in 1821. (How do you suppose he placed those orders?) The Constantia Valley, named after Van der Stel’s farm, continues as a wine region today.

Van der Stel began the expansion of Cape settlements by establishing the town of Stellenbosch. He arranged for safe passage of French Huguenots with winemaking knowledge to the Cape and established an areas for their farms in Franschoek (“French corner”) and Paarl. Many French winery names remain today.

Van der Stel rose to the position of Governor of the Cape by 1691, the first individual of mixed race origin to do so.

The Cape wine industry struggled during the 18th century as it learned the best winemaking practices, grape varieties to plant and to improve inconsistent quality.

The 19th century brought British occupation of the Cape and Britain’s war with France, which created a market for South African wines. The second half of the 19th century, however brought tragedy in the form of phylloxera along with the end of the conflict between the British and French. These two events were followed in 1899 by the beginning of the Boer War which threw wine production into chaos.

With the conclusion of the Boer War in 1902 and the departure of British troops, the demand for Brandy plummeted. Production exceeded demand and Cape wine and brandy producers were forced to accept whatever price was offered by wine merchants for their wines.

Charles Kohler is the first important name in the 20th century history of South African wine. Charles Kohler proposed Ko-ope-ratieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika, Beperkt (KWV) which became the first co-op for wine producers in South Africa. First proposed in 1916 and finalized in 1918 in Paarl, it eventually succeeded in providing price supports and leveling production. It successfully improved exports for wine and spirits. KWV became a commercial venture in 1997 and continues today with a stable of wine and brandy labels on the market.

Two more important points regarding the history of wine in South Africa. First is the development of Pinotage, South Africa’s own hybrid grape. Developed by Abraham Perold, the fourth generation descendant of a French prisoner of war brought to the Cape in 1814, it is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (also called Hermitage). The initial cross produced only four seeds, which he planted in his residence nursery rather than at the University of Stellenbosch where he was Professor of Viticulture. Inexplicably, when he left the University for a position with KWV Winery, he neglected to take the plantings. They were rescued by a colleague and replanted in the nursery at Elsenberg Agricultural College by Professor CJ Theron.

Theron grafted the seedling growth onto recently developed rootstock, Richter 99 and Richter 57. Had Theron chosen older rootstock, it was infected with viral disease and was subsequently destroyed, the history of Pinotage may have stopped at this point. Theron and Perold eventually decided on the name of Pinotage as a combination of the names of the grapes that produced the cross.

The one vine that thrived became the mother vine of Pinotage. The first plantings are documented in 1943. The 1959 vintage was the first labeled Pinotage. It has not without it’s challenges. According to Wine Grapes, by Robinson, Harding and Vouillamoz, off scents of spray paint may develop if the vines are water stressed or with high temperatures at harvest. A burned rubber nose may be the result of viral disease. These characteristics have decreased with experience in the vineyard and with winemaking.

Abraham Perold traveled extensively in Europe and brought back cuttings of 177 grape varieties which established the collection at the University of Stellenbosch. No notes remain which explain why he chose to cross Pinot Noir with Cinsault. We can only wonder what his thought process was.

Finally, apartheid, the South African government’s policy of maintaining white dominance by racial separation, lasted from 1948 until a new constitution was written in 1994. These policies resulted in economic sanctions by many countries, including the UK and the US in 1985. The US began to lift sanctions in 1991. South African wines did not reach significant portions of the world market during this time. The re-opening of world markets to the South African wine industry has meant increasing wine exports. 2012 exports were at record levels.

At least 20 red grape varieties are grown in South Africa, including Pinotage and Roobernet, both crosses developed in South Africa. White grape varieties number at least the same, and include Nouvelle, another locally-crossed variety.

All this history has made me thirsty to talk about the South African wines we tasted. George and Gail changed the format a bit for this tasting. We tasted the first bottle blinded, and then talked about the wine before George uncovered the bottle. The following four wines were poured blinded as well, in pairs. We tasted the first two then discussed them before moving on to the second pair. Finally, the last wine was tasted blind, described then uncovered. It was an interesting tasting. Here we go.

2011 Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage $15 This ruby wine had dark fruit scents on the nose with just a hint of smoke. There was plenty of dark fruit, berry and earthy flavors with good acid and significant, but smooth tannins. This wine had lots of flavor and a fairly light weight in the mouth. None of the off-putting scents that have plagued Pinotage in the past. This wine would pair nicely with pasta and roasted or grilled meats.

2007 Rustenberg John X Merriman Stellenbosch $33. Dark fruit and herbal notes are obvious on the nose. Complex flavors of berries and plums with hints of green pepper and earthiness in the background combine with significant, drying tannins. The finish is long with both flavor and tannins. The complex flavors derive from the Bordeaux blend: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec

2010 Thelema Mountain Red $19. Minimal dark fruit nose is followed by flavors of plums, blackberries and a bit of black pepper. Tannins are a bit grippy, but do not stand out. Acid is adequate and the body is light. This wine has lots of flavor, a light body and long finish. It would be great with pasta or pizza. This is another blend: 29% Shiraz, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Grenache, 11% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.

2008 Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon $42. Berry and herbal scents are followed by dark plum, berries and a bit of tobacco flavor. Hints of vanilla peek out on the finish with significant tannins and good acid. This 100% Cabernet is flavorful and well-balanced. Kanonkop is located on Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch. The average age of the vines is 20 years with most located on the favored south facing slopes.

2009 Glenelly Cabernet Sauvignon $23. Caramel and ripe fruit scents lead to plum, dark berry, tobacco and smoky flavors. Good acid and significant tannins complete the flavor profile to create a complex wine with a long finish. Well pulled-together.

Glenelly Estate has had a series of owners over the years but the original land grant in the Stellenbosch region, by Simon van der Stel, was to a French Huguenot family in 1682. After a lengthy period of ownership by a British family, the estate is purchased in 2003 by May de Lencquesaing who had previously managed Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Second Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, Bordeaux. An amazing history.

2010 Raats Cabernet Franc $39. Minimal fruit on the nose with slightly sweet dark fruit flavors, minerality and notable acidity. This wine has clean, dark fruit flavors with a hint of vegetal flavors in the background. Tannins are with smooth and well-integrated. A tightly structured, flavorful wine. This 100% Cabernet Franc is grown in Stellenbosch.

So, you can see from this tasting, South Africa has lots to offer wine drinkers. Their own grape variety (Pinotage), single varietal wines and blends. All were interesting wines in an affordable price range. And these are only the red wines. We will leave the white wines for another occasion. It’s aways nice to leave something for next time.

Cheers!

The wines we will be tasting will not just be Canadian wines, however. We will get to try wines from all over the world. In addition to Penticton & Wine Country Tourism some of the sponsors are Great Estates of the Okanagan, Oliver-Osoyoos Wine Association, Wines of British Columbia, Wines of Uruguay, New Wines of Greece, Wines of South Africa, D.O. Rueda from Spain. For a complete list go to the WBC13 Sponsors page.

The WBC13 agenda is quite extensive. There will be seminars on Creating Compelling Content, Wine Country Videography, Learning to be a Wine Judge and much more. In addition many wineries will present their wines and educate us on what makes them special. We will be able to talk with wine makers and winery owners and many others involved in the wine industry.

We originally planned to drive to Penticton but decided to fly and spend more time in the Okanagan Valley. We are arriving a day early and will land at the Kelowna International Airport. We will rent a car and drive to Penticton for the night and stay at the Pentiction Lakeside Resort where the WBC13 is being held. This will give us a chance to explore the local area a little before we get caught up in the conference.

The next day we will drive around to explore the area and maybe visit a couple of wineries. Eventually we will end up at the Kelowna airport again, turn in the car and catch a shuttle to the Hotel Eldorado to start the Kelowna pre-excursion. There were two pre-excursions this year, one leaving from the Seattle airport and heading for Lake Chelan, Washington and the other to Kelowna area wineries.

While Penticton is our final destination we do have a pre-excursion booked in Kelowna. Kelowna is at the north end of Lake Okanagan and has many wineries within easy driving distance. Along with the WBC13 staff, Tourism Kelowna has worked very hard to give us a great overnight adventure to local wineries. Dinner at the Summerhill Pyramid Winery, breakfast at Tantalus Vineyards and lunch At CedarCreek Estate Winery. Details will be another post after we have returned to Penticton after the excursion.

Last year we attended WBC12 in Portland, Oregon. You can do a search on our site if you want to read about what we did there.  We obviously try a lot of different wines from all over the world and we attend educational seminars. Lots of fun and we learn a lot from each other.

Seth’s preferred wine varietal is Pinot Noir. After discussing whether or not we should bring a Pinot, we decided not since we didn’t know what was on the menu, we left with just homemade cookies in our bag.

We made the trip into San Francisco on that Sunday morning via car, BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit), Muni Metro and on foot. The weather was cool and windy, but the brisk walk uphill to Marie’s house warmed us up. It was a fun expedition. We are so used to just getting in the car and driving to our destination, it is a refreshing change to use public transportation.

The house was warm and I noticed the smell of roasting potatoes as we walked into Marie’s home. After greetings all around, the group consisted of the two of us, Seth, Marie and her son Clement, we settled into the business of what to drink. Marie said she had a Riesling, which had been a birthday gift, that she wanted to try. Everyone was agreeable. She said, ” It’s from Bulgaria”. Pete and I look at each other, eyebrows raised. This would be our first wine from Bulgaria.

She brought out the bottle. It was a tall and slender as Riesling bottles generally are. The clear glass bottle had a spiral pattern twisting to the top. Marie asked me to open the bottle. I did so and poured four glasses. We all sniffed, swirled and sipped. The nose was delicately floral with characteristic Riesling petrol in background. Flavors included citrus, minerals and melon. It had good acidity, a touch of sweetness and a very light weight in the mouth. The 2011 Targovishte Riesling is produced in the Black Sea Coastal area of Bulgaria. This producer makes only white wines, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer and Dry Muscat Ottonel in addition to Riesling.

The Targovishte Riesling paired nicely with the lunch Marie prepared. Spinach salad, oven roasted asparagus, pommes Lyonnaise and grilled sausages. Several of the sausages were very spicy and the cool acidity of the Riesling was a perfect counterbalance. The wine did not step on the flavors of the food, nor did its flavor disappear behind the flavors of the food.

We lingered at the dining room table for some time chatting, sipping and picking at the crusty bits of the pommes Lyonnaise that remained. Eventually we nibbled on the cookies. With the food and wine dispatched and our visiting complete, we said our goodbyes and thanks to Marie for a wonderful lunch.

We walked down the hill to the Muni Metro stop and a train appeared in a matter of minutes. As we traveled home, watching people and chatting about the afternoon, the great family visit, wonderful food and tasty wine, we noted that we must remember to update our list of New Year’s Wine Resolutions. Our third resolution for 2013 is to try a wine from three new countries. Bulgaria is the first new country for the year. I have updated our list. We now have two to go.

You just never know who is coming to lunch.

Cheers!

Let’s start with the AOC of Hermitage. It is only 336 acres in area. Located on the side of a hill above the village of Tain l’Hermitage, it’s terraced vineyards have granite sands, clay and alluvial stone soils as well as the favored southern exposure along the Rhone River. The hill protects the vineyards from strong north winds. So the combination of great location and very limited acreage combine to make wines from Hermitage so expensive.

The village of Crozes-Hermitage is less than two miles north of the AOC of Hermitage. Crozes-Hermitage was declared an AOC in 1937 and at that time applied only to the village of the same name. It was expanded geographically in 1956 to include 10 surrounding villages. It is the largest AOC in the northern Rhone at 3565 acres. It now surrounds the Hermitage AOC to the north, east and south.

As you might expect with an appellation the size of Crozes-Hermitage, the soil types are varied. They include granite, clay, sand and pebbles. Because Crozes-Hermitage is located on the north side of the hill designated as Hermitage, it does not have the same protection from the sometimes fierce north winds as do the vineyards of Hermitage. In contrast to Hermitage which is located entirely on the south side of a hill, the Crozes-Hermitage AOC contains hilly and well as flatter geography.

Both red and white wines are produced in Crozes-Hermitage. The reds from Syrah and the whites from Marsanne and Roussanne. Red wines may have a maximum of 15% white blended into them. Many of the red wines have good potential for aging. We tasted only red wines in this tasting, all 100% Syrah as far as I could determine.

Because young Crozes-Hermitage wines can be very tannic, George double decanted the wines an hour before the tasting. Double decanting in this instance means pouring the wine from the wine bottle through the funnel into the glass decanter, then pouring the contents of the decanter through the funnel back into the bottle. To achieve maximum aeration, George used the very sophisticated decanter and funnel pictured below. Yep, that right it’s a mayonnaise jar, Hellman’s for those of you east of the Mississippi and Best Foods for those of us in the West.

Our assignment for the evening was to choose our favorite wine.

2009 Domaine des Martinelles Crozes-Hermitage $25.50 This dark ruby wine had caramel, smoke and dark fruit scents. Flavors of dark fruit, black pepper and spice combined with lots of acidity and a fairly light body. The finish was very long and tannins were significant and a bit grippy. Big tannins make it a better companion with food. Made from 100% Syrah from a vineyard in the village of Gervans, north of the village of Crozes-Hermitage. This was the group’s second favorite wine.

2009 Domaine St. Clair Ètincelle Crozes-Hermitage $25.50 Dark purple in the glass with a very ripe dark fruit nose. The dark fruit flavors are a bit sweet and combine with cedar and great acidity. The weight in the mouth is light in spite of significant tannins. The finish is dominated by tannins. This 100% Syrah is inky dark and looks so young in the glass.

2009 St Claire La Fleur Enchantée Crozes-Hermitage $31.50 Once again, very dark ruby in color with a bit of violet around the edge of the glass. Very young looking in the glass. The nose had a bit of smoke in addition to dark ripe fruit. Flavors of dark fruit and a hint of sweetness combine with a bit of tobacco and once again very significant tannins. The body is light and the finish is fairly long.

2009 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Les Jalets Crozes-Hermitage $30. Very dark ruby in the glass with dark fruit scents. Dark fruit, spice and tobacco flavors combine with great acidity and very significant tannins to create a very complex wine. Complex flavors combined with significant tannins give this wine great aging potential. Best with food.

2007 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage $32. Intoxicating nose of dark fruit, smoke and cedar. Spicy dark fruit flavors and cedar combine with good acidity and significant, but smooth tannins to produce a very well-balanced wine. This wine has lots of flavor. Flavors and tannins have come together nicely. An example of what can happen with age. It is great on its own and would be a great companion to food. This was the favorite wine of the group.

2010 Alta Colina Toasted Slope Estate Syrah $38. Inky dark in the glass with an obvious very ripe fruit and vanilla nose. Sweet dark fruit flavors, black pepper and significant drying tannins produce a riper, fruity wine. Fruit is much more obvious in this California Syrah and the style stood out in this group of wines. Yes, George threw us a curve ball, but we hit it out of the park. Most of us recognized this as a New World wine.

These wines all had lots of fruit flavor, some were a bit more complex than others. The tannins and acidity in this group of wines were remarkable. All had ABV in the range of 12.5 to 13%, with the exception of the California Syrah which came in at 15.5%. Another great example of how there is a wine for every palate and preference.

It’s not difficult to spend a lot of money on wine. There are plenty of very expensive wines available, and many of them are excellent. The difficulty lies in parting with your hard-earned money. And why spend more than you need to? It is so much more rewarding to find a moderately-priced wine that is also excellent. There are several examples in this group of Crozes-Hermitage.

Cheers!

2012 Santa Julia Torrontes $9. Stony minerality and slight floral nose combines with peach and melon flavors, crisp acidity and a moderately long juicy finish. Nothing to dislike in this Argentinian wine from Mendoza. This wine doesn’t cost much, and it does not short-change on flavor. The perfect combination.

2012 Bokisch Vineyards Terra Alta Vineyard Albariño $16.50 A very floral nose of orange blossoms is followed by melon flavors and just a bit of sweetness. Great acidity provides a clean, long and juicy finish.

The Terra Alta Vineyard is located in the Clements Hills AVA along the southeast side of the Lodi appellation. This AVA (American Viticultural Area) is characterized by rolling hills and is a bit warmer and wetter than western portions of Lodi AVA.

2011 Hacienda Araucano Reserva Sauvignon Blanc $12. Vegetal scents and flavors are a departure from the prior floral wines. Flavors of dried hay, maybe a bit of citrus, and good acidity make for a well-balanced light wine. Flavors are fairly complex and it is not an overtly grassy Sauvignon Blanc.

This Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, which a majority of tasters correctly identified as one of the two Sauvignon Blancs in this group, is produced in an area of the Colchagua Valley known as Valle del Lolol. It is located close enough to the ocean to allow clouds and moisture to extend over the area in the mornings to cool the vineyards.

2012 Bokisch Vineyards Vista Luna Vineyard Verdelho $16.50 Scents and flavors are very complex in this wine. Ripe melon, citrus, floral and mineral scents and flavors along with clean acidity provide lots of flavor and a long finish. This wine is a bit rounder in the mouth.

This Portuguese variety is grown in the Borden Ranch AVA located on the east side of the Lodi appellation. Verhelho is one of the four major grape varieties used in the production of Madeira, a fortified wine produced in the Portuguese islands of the same name.

2011 Capistrano Verdicchio di Matelica $15 Toasty scents and flavors dominate in this Italian white wine. Toasted nuts and yeasty flavors with a light weight in the mouth and adequate acidity make for an interesting flavor. It is completely different from any of the other wines in this group.

Verdicchio is an Italian white grape variety grown in the Marche region of Italy, along the Adriatic Sea (in the area of the “calf” of the Italian boot). Verdicchio di Matelica has DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation which requires the wines be at least 85% Verdicchio with Trebbiano and Malvasia making up the balance.

I’m guessing this bottle is not representative of Verdicchio di Matelica. It is described as having citrus flavors with high acidity.

2012 St Supéry Sauvignon Blanc $19.50 Obvious grassy nose and herbaceous flavors, light body and good acidity. The finish was fairly long. This Napa Valley wine is not overly “grassy” for a Sauvignon Blanc. The group correctly identified this as a Sauvignon Blanc and it was the favorite Sauvignon Blanc as well.

This tasting confirmed two things for me.

First – flavorful, aromatic white wines with ample acidity are a pleasure to drink, especially as the weather warms up. They pair well with so many kinds of food or can be sipped by themselves. Bokisch Vineyards has Portuguese and Spanish white varietal wines dialed in. They are so aromatic and have great flavor and acidity. And they are reasonably priced.

Second – new world Sauvignon Blanc is not my favorite thing. I simply do not enjoy the characteristic grassy flavor the grape produces. Neither of these Sauvignon Blancs were particularly grassy, in fact they are both only mildly grassy. That was a good thing. The dried hay flavors of the Hacienda Araucano Reserva Sauvignon Blanc were slightly more appealing to me than the green grassiness of the St. Supréy Sauvignon Blanc.

Cheers!

A series of virtual tastings and well as tasting room events will be happening during the month of May. You can find a listing of the events, featured wineries and information about the Finger Lakes AVA on the Finger Lakes Wine Month website.

We participated in an online tasting of Finger Lakes red wines earlier this year, in February, and wrote about that tasting in a prior post. You can find more detailed information about the Finger Lakes AVA there.

The Finger Lakes AVA has become well known for cool weather white wines: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner to name a few. These are the varietal wines we tasted as part of this online tasting.

2012 Thirsty Owl Wine Company Pinot Gris $14.95 This wine has a very floral, jasmine and orange blossom, nose along with mineral and citrus flavors. The acidity is on point for a clean, rather long finish. There is no lack of flavor in this wine. Not like some flavorless, watery Pinot Gris. The juice had overnight skin contact before fermentation and is a bit round in the mouth. 12% ABV.

Thirsty Owl Wine Company is located on the western shore of Cayuga Lake with 150 acres and 2000 feet of lake frontage. Their production is 12,000 cases annually and they have 37 acres under vines. A bit over 22 acres are planted with white varieties: Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürtztraminer. The oldest Riesling vines were planted in the early 1980s and there are plans for additional Pinot Gris.

2011 Stony Lonesome Estates Estate Grüner Veltliner $14. A subtle steely nose is followed by slightly sweet citrus flavors and juicy acidity. Understated, but complex. This wine gains complexity as it sits in the glass. ABV 11%.

“Passion, Pleasure, Adventure” followed by “Three unique wineries and a microbrewery. All one estate” are the lead statements on the Three Brothers Wineries & Estates website. Their three winery labels include Stony Lonesome Estates…”for those who enjoy the finer things in life”, Passion Feet…”for those who live life with laughter and abandon” and Bagg Dare…”for those who have a lot more fun in a dive bar”. Also on the list is Four Degrees of Riesling which is a series of four Rieslings which are fermented to varying degrees of sweetness. There is something for everyone from Three Brothers Wineries & Estates.

The Brothers clearly have a sense of humor, but take winemaking very seriously. The vineyards are located on the northeast end of Seneca Lake. The Grüner Veltliner was planted in 2006 and are some of the first plantings of the grape variety in the Finger Lakes AVA. These two acres are planted in Cazenovia silt loam soil on a 6% slope toward Seneca Lake. They chose to plant Grüner Veltliner because it is such a good food wine.

Their Riesling plantings cover eleven acres. Four acres were planted in 1980 and seven more in 2006. Trellising in the vineyard is managed to produce the best quality fruit possible.

2012 Fulkerson Winery Grüner Veltliner $13.99 This GrüVe has a complex floral nose with flavors of red apples and minerals. It is a bit round in the mouth. The finish is very clean and fairly long. ABV 12%.

In 1805 Caleb Fulkerson, a veteran of the Revolutionary War, settled the acreage still farmed by the Fulkerson family today. Fulkerson Winery is located on the west side of Seneca Lake. Grapes were first planted in the 1830s. Wine production steadily increased over the years and in 2005 they celebrated their bicentennial by opening a new tasting room.

Riesling accounts for the largest percentage of of white grape plantings, 22 acres, and is produced is a variety of styles from dry to sweet. Other whites include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Grüner Veltliner. Hybrid grape varieties include Cayuga White and Traminette along with natives such as Niagra and Diamond.

Red wine production includes Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, Merlot and Lemberger. They are one of only three wineries to produce Vincent, a hybrid developed in Canada, as a varietal wine.

2011 Knapp Winery Dry Gewürztraminer $14.95 An obvious nose of honeysuckle and pineapple is followed by slightly sweet melon flavors with bright acidity for good balance. The finish in fairly long and clean thanks to the acidity. The nose is reminiscent of a Riesling. 11.5%.

Knapp Winery is located on the west side of Cayuga Lake. It was established in 1984 and Knapp Winery was the first to plant and vinify Cabernet Franc in the Finger Lakes AVA. Currently 40 acres are planted in vines for the production of estate wines. The Sunrise Hill vineyard is the source for this flavorful Gewürztraminer.

2012 Dr. Konstantin Frank Gewürztraminer $14.99 A fragrant nose of citrus blossom is followed by complex flavors of citrus and green apple. There is a touch of sweetness, good acidity and once again, a very clean finish. ABV 13.2%.

The name Konstantin Frank is closely linked to the history of successful wine production in the Finger Lakes AVA. Dr. Frank earned a Ph.D. in viticulture from Odessa Polytechnic Institute and immigrated to the US in 1951. He settled with his family in the Finger Lakes region and put his knowledge growing European wine varieties, Vitis vinifera, in cold weather to good use. Prior attempts by others to do so had been unsuccessful. He successfully demonstrated growing European grape varieties was possible, with the proper rootstock, setting the stage for wine production in the Finger Lakes AVA.

Two things stand out to me after tasting these wines: aromatics and acidity. These wines are so pleasingly scented – like springtime. Some are a bit sweeter than others, but all have great acidity for a clean finish. Great acidity is one of the benefits of wine produced is a cool weather climate.

These wines will be great summer wines and will pair well with fish, rich creamy pasta dishes, spicy food or just to sip on a hot afternoon. And they are very affordable.

Serve these wines chilled, but not too cold. The delicate aromatics and flavors in these wines come alive as they warm in your glass.

Thank you to the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance for organizing the tasting and all of the wineries for providing us with the tasting samples.

Cheers!

We recently received four tasting samples from SakéOne and participated in a tasting via Twitter. We learned quite a bit about SakéOne and how saké is made.

SakéOne began importing Japan’s premium sake in 1992 (as Momokawa Saké Ltd) and eventually became a brewer of premium saké with the completion of the brewery (known as a kura in Japanese) in 1997. SakéOne’s Greg Lorenz, one of only a handful of American saké brewers, learned his craft from some of Japan’s leading brewers and by experience at the Oregon brewery. He is a self-described “lab geek” who enjoys understanding saké production by learning how the organisms involved in the brewing work together. He finds it exciting that the process involves both molds and yeasts.

Premium saké is made from rice, water, koji (Aspergillus mold spores) and yeast. The brewing process begins with milling the rice to remove the outer layers of each grain. These outer layers contain fats and proteins which can impart unwanted flavors and aromas during fermentation. The degree of milling determines the quality of the premium sake. The three levels are: 50% remaining (Janmai Daigingo and Daiginjo), 60% remaining (Junmai Ginjo and Gingo) and 70% remaining (Junmai and Honjozo). SakéOne mills 40% each rice grain away, leaving 60%.

The rice used to produce saké in Japan, sakamai, is specifically developed for this purpose. It is very high in starch which is concentrated at the core of each rice grain. SakéOne uses rice grown in California’s Sacramento Valley exclusively and has established a relationship with a grower who is producing Calrose variety M401 specifically for their saké production.

After milling, the rice is washed and steamed. This is one reason a source of pure water is so integral to the brewing process. Soak time and steaming are closely monitored and when the process is complete the koji (Aspergillus oryzae) mold spores are applied to the rice. Specific strains of koji impart unique aromas and flavors and are selected for this reason. The koji digests the starch in each grain of rice converting it to sugar.

At this point fresh yeast, propagated in the brewery, is introduced to the koji rice along with water (that fresh water again) and steamed rice. The fermentation process begins here and continues for several weeks. The yeast, just like the koji, will introduce unique flavors and aromas to the process.

The fermentation is monitored and when the desired flavors and alcohol content are achieved the sediment is pressed out, the liquid is pasteurized and aging begin. After this process is completed the brew is filtered, pasteurized a second time and bottled.

The process can take as long as seven months to complete and is very hands-on. The saké brew master is involved in every step of the process in order to draw out the flavors of the rice. Greg has a detailed understanding of the complexities of each step in the process and how all components work together to produce the unique flavors and texture of the saké he produces.

This is a simplified overview of the process. As noted above, premium saké is produced from rice, water, koji and yeast. But, some premium saké does contain a small amount of distilled alcohol to enhance flavor and fragrance (Daiginjo, Ginjo and Honjozo). Not all saké is pasteurized and some is diluted with water after brewing to reduce the ABV from 20% to 15% or so. Also, not all saké is filtered, some is left slightly cloudy (Nigori). These are choices made by the sakémaster depending on the specific flavors and style of saké being produced.

Premium saké production in Japan accounts for about 20% of total saké production and it is largely what’s imported into the US. Premium saké is intended to be consumed chilled, using a white wine glass. This will maximize the flavors and aromas of the saké. No more drinking heated saké from small ceramic cups!

Now, a bit about each of the sakés we received as tasting samples:

Murai Family Tokubetsu Honjozo $25. First the label: Tokubetsu on the label means “special” and refers to additional milling or a special kind of rice used in the brewing. Honjozo means the rice is milled to 70% remaining and that alcohol has been added. This saké is imported from Japan and the rice has been milled to 60% (below the 70% requirement). It has earthy flavors and a round mouthfeel. A bit rustic tasting. ABV is 15.5%.

SakeMoto Junmai $11. This imported saké has had no alcohol added and is milled to 70%. ABV is 14.7%. It has floral scents and flavors and overall was more flavorful than the Murai Family. It is a bit rounder in the mouth as well.

Yoshinogawa Winter Warrior Junmai Gingo $27 is polished to 60% and has had no alcohol added. ABV 14%. The nose and flavors are very fruity – tropical fruits – with more complexity. This would be a great saké for spicy Asian food. It is imported.

G Fifty Junmai Ginjo Genshu $25. This Junmai Ginjo sake is undiluted, meaning no water is added to it after brewing. The ABV is 18%. This saké had the most flavor to my palate. It was a combination of pears and flower scents and flavors. A bit more alcohol contrasted nicely with the fruit and floral flavors. Produced by SakéOne in Forest Grove, Oregon.

As you probably noticed there are no vintage dates for any of these sakés. In general, saké is intended to drink and not hold for aging. They do not age well, except (you knew there would be an exception, right?) Koshu saké which is made to age and can do so for decades, becoming darker with age.

In general these sakés would be good with any Asian dish, sushi, fish, chicken or other lighter fare. They are flavorful and refreshing. They do lack the acidity of wine and have a very round feel in the mouth to me. I think they would be particularly enjoyable during warmer weather and offer a pleasant change from wine. Alcohol levels can be higher than wine.

No cork screw is required. All of these bottles have a screw cap closure. Very portable.

Finally, you will notice when shopping for this saké, that they contain no sulfites. That might be very important to some consumers.

The May 31, 2013 issue of Wine Spectator has two very interesting and detailed articles about saké. They are worth your time if you are interested in reading more about saké production, reviews and the popularity of premium saké in the US.

Thank you to SakéOne for providing the tasting samples.

Cheers!