The question might be, “What are you drinking?”, and the answer, “Oh, it’s a Cab.” You might assume the answer indicates Cabernet Sauvignon. Probably that would be the case, but maybe it is that other Cabernet, Cabernet Franc. Actually, there are many other “Cabernets”. The alphabetical listing under Cabernet totals 15 in Wine Grapes by Robinson et al.
Cabernet Franc is known for its aromatic qualities which can include floral, spice and herbaceous notes. It is because of these aromatic qualities that it is most often used as a blending grape. In general, it is a lighter bodied red wine when not blended with other varieties.
Cabernet Franc prefers a cooler climate and thrives in sandy or clay-limestone soils. It buds and flowers earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus it is easier ripening in cooler climates. Vines produce bunches of grapes with small black berries.
In the Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny regions of the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc is generally not blended with another grape. Cabernet Franc thrives in the cool, maritime-influenced climate. Well-draining soils produce a variety of flavor profiles among the wines produced here. Tannins can be substantial.
Cabernet Franc is an important blending grape in Bordeaux. On the left bank (Medoc) Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the main blending grapes, though Cabernet Franc is allowed. On the right bank (Saint-Emilion and Pomerol) Cabernet Franc is much more prominent, and is blended with Merlot. Cab Franc is planted more commonly, along with Merlot, on the right bank of Bordeaux because the early budding characteristics of both allow them to ripen in the cooler climate.
Most recent DNA and other studies indicate that Cab Franc originated in the Basque Region of Spain. It is the parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère.
So, the tasting last Thursday night at Fine Wines of Stockton was Cabernet Franc. We tasted six Cab Francs, none were blends. Three were from the Loire Valley, two from California and one from Argentina.
2010 Sauvion Chinon – this ruby-colored wine was a complex combination of vegetal scents and flavors including celery and green pepper along with dark fruit. Tannins were substantial, but smooth. This wine was well-structured and easy to drink. The finish was medium long. This was my favorite wine of the group.
2007 Doña Paula Uco Valley, Mendoza – this much darker wine had smoke and sweet fruit on the nose followed by ripe dark fruit flavors, smoke and significant grippy tannins. A bit of vanilla came through as well. This wine tasted like a warmer weather wine.
2011 Domaine De La Butte Bourgueil Le Pied De La Butte – this ruby wine is vinified without aging in wood, only stainless, as the winemaker wants to express the only the essence of the grapes. A floral and slightly vegetal nose is followed by cherry flavors and significant tannins. This wine is very light in the mouth but very flavorful.
2010 Jean-Maurice Raffault Les Galuches Chinon – the floral bouquet is followed by cherry and plum flavors with significant tannins, very light feel in the mouth and a fairly long finish. The Cab Franc for this very pleasant wine is among the first to ripen for this producer as it is located on fast-draining gravel soil that warms quickly. This was Pete’s favorite wine.
2010 Alexander Valley Vineyards Estate Cabernet Franc – this dark ruby wine tastes rich and ripe with vanilla behind the fruit. The tannins were significant. This is a food wine and would pair nicely with roasted meats. This was the tasting group’s favorite wine.
2010 Conn Creek Napa Valley Cabernet Franc – a surprising nose of floral and mint is followed by sweet, dark fruit, vanilla and significant tannins.
These six wine were an interesting study in contrast. First, climate. The French wines were lighter bodied, with flavors of cherries and plums. The fruit tasted less ripe, perhaps due to a cooler climate. The California and Argentinian wines tasted riper overall and had a bit more weight in the mouth.
Second, wood influence. The French Cabernet Franc in this group did not have obvious wood flavors in the wines. What I tasted was fruit. Though, I know some producers do use wood. The California and Argentinian wines both had wood flavors behind the fruit. I sensed this as vanilla in all three of the wines to varying degrees.
What all of these wines had in common is good acidity and a pleasant bouquet. The nose on all of these wines was a combination of vegetal and floral scents. All were easy to appreciate.
So, if you are choosing a wine to sip while sitting in the back yard or one that you want to drink with chicken or pork you might choose a Chinon or Bourgueil. If you are looking for a bigger wine to pair with roasted meats or a hearty dishes you might consider a California or Argentinian Cabernet Franc. It’s always nice to have a choice of styles.
Cheers!
